Bay Work. With Oysters. Welcome to my conversation with Travis Croxton of Rappahannock Oyster Company, who, along with brother Ryan, has helped bring the long and storied tradition of Virginia Chesapeake Bay oysters back into the spotlight. From one small grill at Merroir in Topping, Virginia these brothers have built a restaurant empire, one that's growing all the time. From RockSalt in Charlottesville to their newest addition Rapp Session in Richmond, Rappahannock Oyster now has eight restaurants, including one in Los Angeles that opens in November. World domination is officially underway.
The Croxtons are 4th-generation oyster farmers, going back to the 1800's. The story of his family's agricultural origins was fascinating and made me grateful these two brothers are carrying on such an important legacy. Their logo was created using the signature of one of their ancestors and the paperwork for the land grant for the oyster farm hangs in one of their restaurants. A terrific idea, including story into your business. What advice does he have for new business owners? Listen to learn more!
For decades the Virginia oyster was nothing but a myth. Overfishing and bad farming practices had driven them almost to extinction. In New York they are extinct. Those fancy New York Blue Points? They come from Virginia and have since the 1800's. Luckily, good farming practices have brought these beauties back and it's a good thing. Oysters are excellent filters. Farming them keeps sediment in place and creates a biodiverse ecosystem. They act as an environmental cornerstone much like coral reefs. When oysters were overfished the bay became incredibly polluted with dead zones where the sun couldn't penetrate which meant many fish died. Today, if you visit the Croxton's farm, the water is so clear you can see straight to the bottom.
"I tell people, we have the cleanest waters in the country, especially the Rappahannock. There's no town, no city on it, it's all forested."
A working oyster farm like Rappahannock includes long lines, lead lines, and underwater cages, each one holding about 2,000 adult oysters, which mature in about 18 months to two years. A tumbling process hardens the shell and makes the cup deeper for a meatier oyster. Once mature, oysters are brought in for husbandry, separation into size and class. Other farms use floating cages but the Croxtons are cognizant of homeowners who'd rather not have their bucolic view of "The Rivah" spoiled. This farm not only produces a delicious product but provides jobs to folks in an area that desperately needs them.
On farming: "We're doing it in rural, economically challenged areas...just recently it dawned on us that we're actually creating a lot of jobs and good work tracks for people...if they show up on time for a year or so we put them on salary and give them benefits, and give them a career path. It's not just food benefits, and health benefits to the Chesapeake but the local economy...A lot of kids go to college and never come back...we're trying to reverse that trend."
Oysters have their own Merrior and Rapphannock's are no exception. The minerality of river flows down from the Blue Ridge add taste, as does the salinity of the ocean. The type of algae they eat affects taste. All of this impacts flavor and the water conditions impact the hardness of the shell and the way it's shaped. Like wine, there isn't just one oyster variety. Chincoteague oysters are going to taste dramatically different from river oysters because of merroir. Dramatically different flavor profiles they can showcase to chefs interested in their product.
On their beginnings, "We need to not only resurrect our Rappahannock farm, but we need to showcase a couple of other (oyster) locations and show the world that we are the Napa Valley of oysters."
The story of how they got chefs interested is downright mythic. They looked up the best restaurant in New York according to Zagat, and arrived at Le Benardin with a cooler between them. Chef Eric Ripert became an instant fan and began serving Rappahannock oysters in his restaurant.
"We had our first sales in the #1 restaurant in the country at the time. And we had no idea what we were doing...to this day chefs like Jen Carroll tell us, 'I remember when you guys walked into our kitchen. You guys were dumbasses!' We didn't even know how to shuck oysters back then."
Chefs have been key to getting the word out. Each chef at every Rappahannock Oyster Company restaurant is so talented, many nationally renowned, and all of them put their own special twist on how they prepare these beauties. If you've had the Lambs and Clams at RockSalt or the Oyster Bourride at Rapphannock, you certainly know what I'm talking about.
How can you shuck an oyster without cutting off a finger? What's the best way to store them? What is a spat? How do oysters spawn? Has consumption changed over the centuries? Are oyster farms affected by weather? Hurricanes? What are the origins of their famous Lambs and Clams? Did you know each restaurant makes this dish but does it a little differently? All the more reason to visit every restaurant in the Croxton kingdom.
The next time you travel down to "The Rivah" and take in its crystal clear beauty, thank an oyster. Then get yourself to one of the Croxton restaurants. You can enjoy oysters there and even pick some up to take home! They also sell them on their website. Whether they're raw, roasted, grilled, steamed, fried, or in a stew, it's good stuff. This episode made me SO hungry! Cheers!
SHOW NOTES – Links to resources talked about during the podcast:
This episode is sponsored by Teej.fm and listeners like you who donated their support at Patreon, who wants every creator in the world to achieve a sustainable income. Thank you.
The very last Edacious podcast. Thx for the food, drink, laughter, memories. Thx for being a conduit Cville, RVA, DC and everywhere else me and my truck Serena went. Thx for the lessons. Be well, Remember to allow. Join me. Here's what next. It's EPIC!
Maybe the most important podcast I've ever produced. Addiction in restaurant culture. In an environment whose very premise is dedicated to serving others, how do we take care of ourselves without the emotional blankets of alcohol, drugs, sex, work, shopping, chaos, rage, you name it? How do we help each other remove those blankets and begin to feel and work through the complicated feelings that come with running and working in the food industry?
How do we help our own? Ben's Friends is figuring it out. My conversation with Carrie Neal Walden of the Atlanta Chapter confirms we absolutely need this in Charlottesville. Sooner rather than later and you guys know why. No need to spell it out, if you know what I mean, you know what I mean. If you don't? Ask your local food industry professional, because until we start talking about addiction in restaurant culture, it will not get better.
Our discussion topics are listed below. Also stay tuned for my very biased and giggly review of our local AquaFloat facility. It's pretty fucking epic and a much better tool than that after work shift drink. Addiction is a chronic disease, but if you have the right toolbox full of stuff, and some community that understands, it becomes just one more facet of the shiny diamond you are. Be well my friends. Big Love.
Chaos. It's the new cocaine.
Living in the present. Be here now. Don't "catastrophize" and predict a horrible future.
You know how addiction ends. How about trying the other story? Aren't you curious?
It's okay to say no and offer an alternative instead of saying yes all the time.
It's okay to say yes, but not right this minute.
Is restaurant culture different from other job cultures? Is it an Island of Misfit Toys?
Setting boundaries.
Parenting yourself.
Restaurant culture and its peculiar habits, some that still exist.
Why Ben's Friends is NOT AA. At all.
A group of restaurant people that want to get and stay sober and they want to help other folks do the same. Not anonymous. Round table open-discussion format. Once a week meetings in 16 cities. Topic based peer-support discussion. What do you do if you're 2 weeks sober but your friends aren't? What boundaries do you set for yourself?
What other industries could this model translate to?
Handling your shit.
To live sober, you've got to have connection.
Anthony Bourdain
Sean Brock
Mocktails
Food delivery system impacts everyone.
We're all a hot mess. Shame is a useless emotion. Take it and turn it into something to help another person. It'll make you feel better.
Sober Curious. What is it?
Perception and Awareness. Being able to look at yourself from outside yourself.
Welcome to Episode 122! No guest this time because all y’all are running around like crazy people anyway. Putting up greenery and buying shit because you think if you don’t get Aunt Gladys a singing gingerbread man, she’ll give you the stink eye. You know what? She will anyway, save your money.
DO YOURSELF this holiday. I see your gutter minds you dirty birdies, but I ain’t talking about bedroom eyes under the mistletoe. I’m talking about expectations and perceptions. What would YOU do if Christmas was the way YOU wanted it and not the way you THINK you wanted it? You’re allowed to do that you know.
Pretend your life is a movie and you’re playing the part of you and if you win the Academy Award this year, that mythical SELF LOVE will finally materialize and throw itself about you like a fabulous new cashmere shawl. Why not? Nothing else has worked to this point. Or maybe it has but just hasn’t lasted long enough for you to notice. In any case, treating self-care as a game, and a movie and a pretend play, where you try out shit and see what works, is a damn sight better option than buying a bunch of bath bombs and wine. Your mind is occupied and OMG you might even have a little fun while you’re trying to fix that voice inside which says if you don’t have potato rolls on the table for Christmas, your neighbor will think you’re a whore.
We talk about that in this episode. Take it easy my friends. No one is behind you with a clipboard ticking off your every imagined failing. You’re fine. We’re all a mess. Big Love. http://edacious.co/122
Authenticity, intuition, and perception in a world full of rigid expectations. Meet Heather Carlucci, medical intuitive, former NYC pastry chef and restaurant owner. All-around badass Glamazon.
She did all the things in food: pastry, savory, consulting, teaching, appearances on Good Morning America and Iron Chef. You name it she probably tackled it with edacious-ness. But five years ago she made a huge change...because something told her there was something more. This is one of the most authentic conversations I’ve ever had on the podcast. A perfect representation of what I want this medium to be. The fact destiny brought me to a medium as the first guest of Edacious 2.0? Feels great in my soul. I can’t imagine a more tremendous beginning, and I’m so grateful to Heather for donating her time. One not to miss. Big Love everyone. Embrace your inner Woo-Woo. Just one way I stay edacious!
Rabbit holes we traveled down:
Authenticity
Not Being Defensive
Accepting all parts of yourself
Zero fucks
Cultural and societal expectations
Restaurant culture now vs. 20 years ago
Workaholics
The importance of rest
Trauma Work
Ego
Mind/Body Connection
The importance of LANGUAGE (hard vs. challenging)
Validation
Does This Matter?
We're All A Mess
Fuck It!
Ease
The Who, What, When, Where, and Why of Edacious, as well as the What's Next. There will be food. There will always be food.
What the hell happened? Find out in this "Catch-Up" episode. So much life, I had to take a minute. Not a bad thing. Reflecton and solitude are essential in order to love yourself. To know yourself. To know what works and what doesn't. When you act from your center instead of reacting to outside forces, the ripple effects, the connections created, are much more powerful. I needed that for myself and for my work which is also my art.
I've also decided I fucking hate show notes so if you want to discover the magic of Edacious, you just better go on and hit SUBSCRIBE at the purple podcast app on your phone. Or not, makes no never mind to me. But I'm saving the writing for the book I just finished. That's on the podcast too.
Stay edacious folks. Especially for yourself. I know it's hard. Pro tip: feel the feelings, don't BE the feelings. Trust me on this one. Big Love from Edacious, a true Connection Initiative.
What is The Farmer’s Shadow and why is it important in making a great wine? Welcome to a reflective, thoughtful conversation with Emily Pelton of Veritas Vineyard & Winery. In wine there is truth. Emily’s truth lies in this concept. Being present with the grapes on a daily basis, tasting, tasting again. Walking the rows. Taking the time and doing the work rather than trying to rush and fix mistakes later.
Wine and how it grows over time both on the vine and in the bottle. The pride you feel when you look at a bottle you grew yourself, the product of many hands and many months of work and careful care. The grape farmer’s finished product. Just like a produce seller is proud of her prized tomatoes, a winemaker feels the same for her wine.
As Emily says, wine isn’t just a product on the shelves, every piece is carefully curated before going into the bottle, just like a chef curates a plate of food. Taste varies among different years, but also among each individual row. It’s the winemaker’s job to taste constantly, sometimes daily. To be present to determine which row will be blended best depending on weather conditions, the age of the vine, and the current condition of the soil. Winemakers are grape farmers after all.
How will this rainy year be salvaged? The news isn’t as dire as you think. Emily sees the challenge as a learning experience and she will use the knowledge she’s gained from past years to create something beautiful. California winemakers are actually jealous since most of the time they endure extremely dry conditions and water shortages. The grass is always greener and the winemaker has to be able to assess what they have rather than long for conditions on the other coast.
Veritas is a family business with deep roots. Although working with family on a daily basis can be challenging, a major amount of trust is an important component. No micromanaging your daughter, your aunt, your brother because everyone has the same end goal. A business that started with a dream Emily’s parents had of owning a farm. A dream Emily followed when she gave up a career in infectious disease to move to Virginia where she quickly fell in love with grape farming and pursued a degree in oenology. Again, being present and aware to what your soul’s purpose needs to do.
It’s not just wine! Veritas offers amazing food, a gorgeous space for special events, and The Farmhouse bed and breakfast with a prix fixe menu which changes depending on what is in season that day. Emily actually works closely with Chef Andy to create perfect pairings for each vintage. Again, an example of taking time. Being present. Not focusing on filling the space with weddings and loading up tour buses. Honesty and truth. Winery first. The rest is just extra.
In this winter season of reflection, I can’t think of a better way to kick off 2019. I hope you enjoy this episode as much as I did creating it. In vino veritas.
Happy New Year! Welcome to a special edition of 3dacious, a bi-weekly compendium of the top 3 regional Foods I Forked, Cool Collaborations, and events I'm excited about, but will probably miss because I'm already snuggly in my recliner with a hot tea and a lapful of cats.
This week? My Best of 2018. The top three of everything. Television that filled my heart with hope and made me guffaw, food I inhaled like a ravenous bear, and the best of the best in this year's podcast conversations. Stories of triumph and survival. Stories that showed me the strength of the human spirit, stories that made me cry, stories of community, and just damn good stories. It was hard to pick only three from so many folks who took time out of their busy lives to share, but here they are. If you had to pick just three to represent a year of great development and change, both in my world and the world at large, this would be a pretty stellar start.
I rant about how well-meaning folks sometimes say stupid things, the importance of knowing your value even if your paycheck doesn't match it, and express wonder and gratitude about all the talent and magic happening in our amazing community. I hope wherever you are this holiday, that you're happy and well and understand that no matter what happens, everything will be okay. Because it will. Thank you to everyone courageous and gracious enough to share their stories and congratulations to all the winners. I'm so excited for what lies ahead. Because if 2018 was any indication, it's going to be tremendous. Be well. Do good. Big Love.
SHOW NOTES – Links to resources talked about during the podcast:
Happy Holidays everyone! In this special episode of Edacious - Food Talk for Gluttons I go off-script. But no worries, there’s still food. Everything starts over food.
When I was a young woman with big dreams, travel was a requirement. Still is. So I worked three jobs, saved some money, and lived on a friend’s couch in Glasgow until the only thing my bank statement showed was enough cash for fare back to the airport. I had a lot of time to write. To think. I brought my favorite books for inspiration, one of which was Paul Auster’s Moon Palace. My favorite book by my favorite author. In a fit of crazy WTF I wrote him a letter of gratitude. To my utter astonishment, he wrote back. My happy tears covered the note and to this day I still use his monogrammed notecard as a bookmark. The day my father told me over a very staticky, barely audible, public phone box line that my favorite author had taken the time to encourage me in my work was one of the happiest in my life.
So this holiday, I want to share Auster’s brilliant storytelling with you. I first heard Auggie Wren’s Christmas Story in the movie Smoke, directed by Wayne Wang and written by Auster. Harvey Keitel does an amazing job. I can’t even pretend to approach that but it felt important this year to share my favorite Christmas story with all of you. To actually TELL a story. Out loud. Because all of the best stories are done that way. Oral storytelling is a lost art and one my father does so well and has all his life. This Christmas it felt important to do that too. To carry on family tradition. To use this podcast to share Daddy’s legacy, where a simple joke can take 20 minutes and involve standing up and using a lot of gestures in an attempt to bring the listener into the action.
I hope I’ve done that here in some small way. If not, search Auggie Wren’s Christmas Story on YouTube and watch Keitel in action along with Wang’s brilliant direction. Couldn’t include Tom Waits in this, I’m probably already in trouble with the Copyright Police, but I hope you enjoy it wherever your travels take you. I wish you much peace, good food, and of course, heaps and heaps of BIG LOVE.
SHOW NOTES – Links to resources talked about during the podcast:
So you’ve got a great recipe for Italian gravy and want to start a food business? Well, it’s way more than throwing it in a jar and sticking it on a grocer’s shelf. There are many hoops to jump through and tests to pass before that dream becomes a reality. Meet Yvonne Ham of Nona’s Italian Cucina. A story full of love, comfort, the safe spaces grandmothers create, and all the different forms heart health can take.
This is not your typical pasta sauce folks. This is REAL ITALIAN GRAVY. What’s the difference? First taste and you’ll know. True Italian gravy is thicker, the cooking process longer and slower. Flavorwise? No comparison. The essence of tomato with an unctuousness, a comforting meatiness. But this sauce is vegan, gluten-free, allergen-free. Just San Marzano tomatoes imported from Italy, fresh herbs, and classic spices. There’s also sweetness, but no sugar here. That’s just supreme tomatoes expressing their flavors.
The story behind Nona’s Italian Cucina is as great as the gravy. Yvonne learned the recipe from an Italian neighbor, a grandmother who acted as both friend and mentor while she and her military family were stationed in Naples. It was Yvonne’s first time abroad and she felt so out of her element, but Nona took her under her wing and not only taught her cooking but showed her how to navigate this new world. Nona became a part of the family and when The Hams returned 12 years later, Nona was there to greet them once more. Yvonne is now carrying on her tradition, feeding people and connecting to folks within her own community. Even though Nona is no longer with us, Yvonne knows she’s watching and guiding Yvonne with her blessing. And I know she’s just so proud.
I first tried Yvonne’s gravy at The Charlottesville City Market, where she’s been sampling and selling and getting the word out for some time. Now she’s begun the next step of the journey. Store shelves. You can find Nona’s Italian Cucina at The Charlottesville City Market, The Spice Diva, Nourish Louisa, Market Street Wine, and Blue Ridge Bottle Shop in Crozet.
What happens when you’ve just started your food business and a major health scare manifests right out of the blue? You keep going. This happened to Yvonne and her story is not only a tribute to her strength and resilience but also to her commitment to caring for people and her community by feeding them good food. Healing yourself, learning your own value, by connecting and caring for others. A deep soulful lesson for all of us and one we can all learn from.
Part of that commitment is future initiatives with the American Heart Association, maybe a fundraiser or a consciousness-raising about advocating for your health and finding your voice. Working to eradicate food deserts. Cooking classes. Whatever Yvonne plans, count me in. She’s a beautiful human being with an amazing product I’m honored to promote and eat, as much as I can. Our lunch lasted almost 6 hours, a leisurely stroll of food and conversation in the true Italian style. Dolce Far Niente. The sweetness of doing nothing. An Italian way of life that everyone should get behind. Often.
Happy holidays everyone. May your own table be as comforting and healing as this conversation was for me. Mille Grazie, Yvonne. Your gravy is amazeballs!
SHOW NOTES – Links to resources talked about during the podcast:
Happy Holidays everyone and welcome to another episode of 3dacious, a bi-weekly compendium of the top 3 regional Foods I Forked, Cool Collaborations, and events I'm excited about, but will probably miss because I've already taken my Tylenol PM.
This week? I rant about my hatred of cookie swaps and think aloud about smiling. Why women are told to do it, and not do it depending on the situation. Plus my recommendation for binge-watching over the holidays. A lovely, sweet sitcom from Australia called, "Please Like Me." Yes, folks, Edacious is WEEKLY. Because it’s never just about the food. Be well. Do good. Big Love.
SHOW NOTES – Links to resources talked about during the podcast:
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