#56: MAXIMIZE — Dealing with Constraints, Falling in Love, 2016 Moonboarding, Tim’s Big Move, Goals and How to Actually Train for Them, Bucket List Climbs, and Fitzgerald Reflections

Martin Keller is one of the few people to boulder 8C+ / V16... But what's really incredible is he just did it right before he turned 46 years old!

Martin is an incredible climber, coach, and teacher. In this episode he shares: 

• How to gain limit strength, rather than just getting tired.
• The best way to project climbs (he's famous for his decade plus projecting ability).
• How he's said "No" to naysayers his whole life and proved them wrong.
• The way to avoid, and deal with, injury.
• What the big differences are between training indoors and outdoors and what to learn from it.

This one was special because it took away Josh's excuse on why his best days of climbing are behind him!

SHOW NOTES:

• Ninja Skills Sit FA (8C+ / V16)

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 Tim’s back at it and with a big smile. Hear how he’s been returning to his peak strength after injury. Tim also talks about how he coaches clients through plateaus. 

Big shout outs to the crews that make life special for Tim and Josh and what they did to help them be their best. 

Bosi repeats ROTSW, and just about every other hard thing in the world.  

And Josh reports back on the project Tim coached him through in the last episode. 

SHOW NOTES: 

• Felipe Hoo’s Famous 360 Kilterboard Send
• Daniel Woods on ROTSW
• Will Bosi does ROTSW

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Matty Hong takes us to Mallorca where he snagged the second ascent of Big Fish. A 9a deep water solo that culminates in a dyno at  ~20m / 60ft!

Matty was out there filming for the latest Reel Rock climbing with the legend Chris Sharma. Since he is often the guy behind the camera we asked him to share some tips for any aspiring climbing film makers and he fully delievered!

Last, but certainly not least, he takes us to Ceuse to tell us about the interesting things he learned from climbing the iconic Biographie -- the worlds first 5.15a.

SHOW NOTES:

• Matty Hong Website
• Matty Hong on Instagram
• Matty Hong on TikTok
• Big Fish (video of Sharma on the crux)
• Reel Rock 18 Trailer
• Biographie 15a Send
• King Lines
  • Trailer
  • Sharma on Los Humildes Pa Casa
• Ethan Pringle on La Hostia by Boone Speed
• Jim Thornburg Instagram

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Drugs, cruxes, moonboarding, injuries, making climbs your b*tch... This one's got it all! 

Tune in for tons of pro-tips that will help you climb better today, and set yourself up for the long term success that we all are striving for.

SHOW NOTES:

• 2017 V8 / 7B+ on Moonboard 2016 Set
• Podcast #33 with Andy Tollefson

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The man, the myth, the Mustache — Keenan Takahashi!

Keenan shares his unique approach to climbing. He seeks out the best lines in the world and then uses that as fuel to transform his body and mind so that he is able to climb them.

Keenan also has created one of the coolest new brands in climbing, ANTIGRAV, that embodies his psyche and ethos for climbing.

SHOW NOTES:

• ANTIGRAV
• Creative Visualization [Book]
• A Little Life [Movie]
• Express Yourself [Song]
• Physics Hyperbole [Squamish Climb]
  • Keenan
  • Josh

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 2024 is off the a bang with incredibly hard bouldering FA’s happening non-stop. 

Is this because USAC caused one of the strongest crews in the world to stop training for the Olympics and start crushing rock again? 

Hear more from Tim about what a session is like when multiple V16 climbers get together to try the hardest boulders in the world. 

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Sean Bailey came on Testpiece and shared his decades of experience from sending and competing at the absolute top of the sport. Sean truly is one of the best climbers in the world right now. 

• Sean recently FA’d the low start to Evilution [“Devilution”] which was a long standing sought after project that clocks in around V16 and is now one of the hardest, proudest lines in the world!
• How he started climbing and training at a young age and what it was like cutting his teeth on his local crags like Smith Rock.
• He shares about what WC’s were like as an American 7+ years ago when the USA was not competitive at all. Spoiler — it was different and not so glamours! 
• His recent time spent on hard outdoor bouldering and the lessons he learned in sport climbing that help in bouldering.
• What he thinks the progression in sport climbing will look like.
• Sean also expands on his recent Instagram post that shared on the struggles pro-climbers have behind the scenes making ends meet. Don’t miss this part.

Absolutely incredible can’t miss podcast by one of the top climbers in our sport!

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Tim shares a common problem that holds people back that he sees in even some of the top athletes he coaches. They jokingly call it "Vomit Mouth".

Learn about what this is and how you can make sure to avoid it in your sessions.

SHOW NOTES:

• Noah Wheeler on Sleepwalker

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Carlo Traversi is back to tell us about his recent FA of The Dark Side V16 (suggested grade) in Yosemite. 

Josh thinks this FA will go down in the history books as THE testpiece of our generation in Yosemite bouldering. Tune in and see what you think.

Carlo explains the incredible tactics he had to employ to get this FA done. It was absolutely mindblowing how detailed he got to make this send happen. A true example of Mastery.

SHOW NOTES:

• The Dark Side Instagram Post
• Valley Uprising
• Yabo Roof

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Happy New Year, my dude.

Tim and Josh get meta about how to have the best 2024 possible by asking the question — why can’t all sessions be good ones?

SHOW NOTES:

• Mastery by Robert Greene
• Atomic Habits by James Clear

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