amanda watts

Maddy Cope has climbed Freerider 28/7c+ in Yosemite, La Scimma Nuda, (9 pitch) 29/8a in Switzerland and countless other hard multipitch/trad routes. She's also cranked out a couple 33/8c's, Mind Control and Bat Route, and smashed out 32/8b+ on gear! She's a true allrounder.

We talk about her process on Freerider and desire to keep seeking adventure and exploration. We also dig into headspace and finding mental cues to focus the mind while climbing. 

Perhaps the best part of our conversation is when we dive deep into the menstrual cycle. Amanda puts her science hat on as well here (Masters Degree in Nutrition and Dietetics + accredited Sport Dietitian) and both Maddy and her talk us through it all. They talk about their own  experiences as well as picking through the current research, discussing what it can tell us. They both have some awesome insights with how their cycle can effect their climbing, training and life and ways you can still get the most out of yourself.  There's some total gold in there for everyone to take home. Fellas, if you're still reading at this point and haven't yet listened to the whole episode, please do. There's a lot to learn and every bit is great. Do your part to understand what half the population experiences for four decades of their life.

Links we mention in the show.

Female Climber Series part 1

Female Climber Series Part 2

Female Climber Series Part 3

An overview of the menstrual cycle

Contraception

Pregnancy and Postpartum

Tracking

Clue (good for diverse resources on the menstrual cycle, contraception and health

Follow Maddy Cope on Instagram

Get in touch with Lattice Training

See Amanda to help fuel your climbing life

Check out Baffle Days website and on instagram

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In December 2020 Oceana qualified to represent Australia at the Tokyo 2020 Olympic games. She did this proudly when climbing made its debut in Tokyo during August 2021.

Oceana is a Bouldering World Cup Finalist, won basically every domestic competition she's ever entered, plus on the real rock front, shes bouldered V11!  Pretty impressive for someone who's  just 19 years old!

In this episode we dig into the early years of Oceana's climbing life and her progression through the youth series. She talks about competition with other competitors (or lack there of), what it was like being in a World Cup final and the pressures and mindset while being there. We also talk about peanut butter, foot slips and her plans for 2022.

Follow Oceana on instagram @oceana_climbing 

Baffle Days www.baffledays.com.au - @baffle_days - Baffle Days Youtube

It’s hard to know where to start in telling this story. It’s been a wild journey. After qualifying for the Olympics in December 2020, we thought things were going to get a bit simpler. We have a date when the Olympics are going to run and a training plan to execute, easy. The reality was a fair bit different. We naively underestimated the path to getting prepared for the biggest sporting event in the world. Perhaps we needed a bit of that to get us to the start line though.

We had big goals and put everything into making it happen. No stone was left unturned in getting Tom to Tokyo in the best shape possible. One of the biggest challenges was creating a training environment in Australia which had never existed. We were like the bow of a ship, breaking through the ice. This took a huge team effort to get Tom as prepared as we possibly could. We couldn’t be more grateful for the support.

Thank you to everyone that helped along this journey, you’re all incredible. Thank you to those who donated to the ASF fundraiser and sent messages of support. It was truly humbling to see how amazing and psyched you all are. Thank you to everyone at Sport Climbing Australia for all the hard work behind the scenes. Thank you to Tom’s sponsors for all their support. Thank you to the climbing gyms for giving me the space to train and prepare. Especially Villawood Climbing gym, Skywood Climbing and Nomad Bouldering. Thank you to Lee Cossey and the Move Clinic for the training plans which took Tom’s climbing to another level. Thank you to Amanda Watts and Thrive Sport Nutrition for keeping Tom fuelled and recovered for seven of the hardest months of training he had ever done. Thank you everyone for everything. This is a team sport!

The only thing left to do now, is decide where to get the tattoo.

You can check out the story of the Olympic qualification here on Episode #24.

Check out our chat with Sherro in Episode #15. He is a power lifting coach and runs Burley Strength in Canberra.

Follow us on Instagram:

@baffledays

@tom_ohalloran

@a.mandawatts

@justsherro

YouTube:

Tom O’Halloran

Baffle Days

www.baffledays.com.au