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    nugget climbing

    Explore " nugget climbing" with insightful episodes like "SEND ALERT: Will Bosi — ‘Return of the Sleepwalker’ V17, and What He Plans to Try Next!", "Creating Comes From Nothing", "SEND ALERT: Kai Lightner — ‘Life of Villains’ 9a, Not Rushing the Process, and Bringing Climbing to Jamaica", "This Is All I've Got" and "SEND ALERT: Jon Cardwell — Establishing ‘Wind Up Bird’ 5.15b, and Uphill Athlete Training" from podcasts like ""The Nugget Climbing Podcast", "Kegels and Coffee", "The Nugget Climbing Podcast", "Kegels and Coffee" and "The Nugget Climbing Podcast"" and more!

    Episodes (77)

    SEND ALERT: Will Bosi — ‘Return of the Sleepwalker’ V17, and What He Plans to Try Next!

    SEND ALERT: Will Bosi — ‘Return of the Sleepwalker’ V17, and What He Plans to Try Next!

    Will Bosi is back to talk about sending ‘Return of the Sleepwalker, his third V17/9A! We talked about surprising himself by sending the stand start in three sessions, why ROTS suited his style better than he expected, how he trained during the bad weather breaks, his process, how he felt on the send, how ROTS stacks up against his other hardest boulders, plans to try Megatron V17 and return to Terranova V16 and Excalibur 5.15c, what he plans to try next, and more!

    Will’s Original Episode:

    EP 166: Will Bosi

    Creating Comes From Nothing

    Creating Comes From Nothing

    Born in Scotland, Angie Seckinger spent her childhood moving a lot all over the globe, from Pakistan, Columbia, Chile and Guatemala to Arizona, Washington DC, Maryland and Germany. Her dad was a foreign service officer and her life was never boring. Angie has been an artist and professional photographer for 40 years. I met her through my husband Pata when I first came to Cornudella in 2014. At the time, she was still living the double life, hustling as a well established photographer in the US, and spending her winters on her quiet piece of property tucked up against the Montsant. We have spent hours talking on her deck. Every time her insights resonate and I walk away inspired. Angie seems to always get me and understand my process. In this recording, we talk about feeling stuck, the cycles of life, the creative process and the importance of stopping. Angie also shares how she learned what ‘having enough’ means to her. In her own words: “Today, I am retired and living my best, peaceful life”.

    SEND ALERT: Kai Lightner — ‘Life of Villains’ 9a, Not Rushing the Process, and Bringing Climbing to Jamaica

    SEND ALERT: Kai Lightner — ‘Life of Villains’ 9a, Not Rushing the Process, and Bringing Climbing to Jamaica

    Kai Lightner is back on to talk about his recent send of 'Life of Villains' 5.14d/9a at the Hurricave! We talked about the emotional rollercoaster of sending 'LOV', how it felt to send 9a in his current body, not rushing the process, his trip to Jamaica, bolting his first route, what's going on with Climbing 4 Change, and more!

    Donate to C4C:

    climbing4change.org

    Kai’s Original Episode:

    EP 55: Kai Lightner

    Nuggets:

    (00:00:00) – Kai’s upcoming trip and project

    (00:03:41) – Self-preservation

    (00:05:11) – The emotional rollercoaster of ‘Life of Villains’ 5.14d/9a

    (00:07:57) – How it felt to send ‘LOV’ in his current body

    (00:13:40) – Not rushing the process

    (00:16:50) – Expanding his technical arsenal

    (00:18:15) – Bad weather, broken holds, and the send

    (00:23:07) – His trip to Jamaica

    (00:27:00) – Building a climbing gym in the National Training Center

    (00:28:42) – Bolting his first route

    (00:33:31) – The food

    (00:35:34) – What’s going on with C4C

    (00:37:49) – Paying it forward

    (00:41:35) – How to support C4C

    (00:45:47) – Testifying in Washington to get climbing gyms recognized as sports facilities

    (00:54:02) – Bouldering with Drew Ruana, and negative temperatures

    This Is All I've Got

    This Is All I've Got

    When I first moved to Spain late last summer, I expected to jump straight into my new job at a local winery, guiding tourists and explaining the history of Priorat. I had prepared and studied for the position, but when I arrived the job fell through. Disheartened at first, I then welcomed the unplanned break I was given and realized how much I needed to just stop. After two years of moving things from one storage unit to another, from the US to Spain and finishing our house here, I felt tired, directionless and empty of any sort of inspiration. For a week or so I mostly slept. Then, little by little, I started picking up the pieces and slowly putting my life back together here in Cornudella de Montsant. With this very first solo episode, I would like to give a glimpse into my life here and what inspired me to start recording again. 

    SEND ALERT: Jon Cardwell — Establishing ‘Wind Up Bird’ 5.15b, and Uphill Athlete Training

    SEND ALERT: Jon Cardwell — Establishing ‘Wind Up Bird’ 5.15b, and Uphill Athlete Training

    Jon Cardwell is back on to talk about his new route ‘Wind Up Bird’ 5.15b at The Fortress of Solitude in CO, how moving away helped him send, what he learned from failing on ‘Super Crackinette’ in France, how he applied Uphill Athlete principles to his training for sport climbing, plans to go back for the extension, bolting 5.15 projects in New Mexico, and much more!

    Jon’s Original Episode:

    EP 50: Jon Cardwell

    References:

    Adam Ondra flashing ‘Super Crackinette’ 9a+

    EP 169: Scott Johnston

    Training for the Uphill Athlete (book)

    Nuggets:

    (00:00:00) – Sending ‘Wind Up Bird’ 5.15b (9b)

    (00:17:40) – How moving away helped him find success

    (00:22:21) – Failing to climb ‘Super Crackinette’ 5.15a (9a+), and what he learned from it

    (00:27:29) – Adam Ondra’s flash of ‘Super Crackinette’

    (00:30:00) – Drawing inspiration from Scott Johnston,  and training for ‘Wind Up Bird’

    (00:35:53) – Constantly learning

    (00:40:42) – More about his training

    (00:45:45) – Falling 50+ times on the same move, and building momentum

    (00:47:35) – Taking your foot off the gas, maintaining strength, and training plans for the extension

    (00:54:20) – Exhaustion and motivation

    (00:56:51) – The complexity of sport climbing

    (00:58:42) – Is V16 a goal for Jon?

    (01:01:23) – New 5.15 projects at The Tunnel in NM

    (01:03:00) – Is anyone trying ‘Wind Up Bird’?

    (01:05:21) – Will the extension be 5.15c (9b+)?

    (01:07:12) – Wrap up

    Follow-Up: Martin Keller — Sending V16 at Age 45, Getting More Out of Less, and the Skill of Delayed Gratification (Teaser)

    Follow-Up: Martin Keller — Sending V16 at Age 45, Getting More Out of Less, and the Skill of Delayed Gratification (Teaser)

    This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Martin Keller is back on the podcast! We met up in Magic Wood over the summer and recorded another great conversation. We talked about his send of Gateway V16/8C+, using video review to make breakthroughs, why you shouldn’t spend 50+ days on a project as he does, gaining 13 kgs to send his hardest boulder, his simple training routine, how he is still getting stronger at 45, and Martin gave me feedback and advice on my climbing.

    Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! 

    *The full version is 1:54:13.

    *Watch the uncut video interview here!

    patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

    Martin's Original Episode:

    EP 109: Martin Keller

    Follow-Up: Katie Lamb — Box Therapy V16, and the Willingness to Persist (Teaser)

    Follow-Up: Katie Lamb — Box Therapy V16, and the Willingness to Persist (Teaser)

    This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Katie Lamb is back on to talk about her groundbreaking ascent of Box Therapy V16. In case you’ve been living under a rock (or haven’t been) Katie recently sent the hardest boulder of her life and became the first woman to send a V16. We go in-depth into her projecting processes, why she picked Box Therapy as a project, her greatest challenges, why she only tried the boulder once per week, her personal key to sending hard boulders, joy vs. excitement, and much more!

    Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! 

    *The full version is 1:40:34.

    *Watch the uncut video interview here!

    patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

    Katie’s Other Episodes:

    EP 145: Katie Lamb

    Follow-Up: Katie Lamb (Apr 20, 2023)

    Follow-Up: Ollie Torr — How to Improve Your Critical Force, Training Endurance at Home, and Listener Q&A (Teaser)

    Follow-Up: Ollie Torr — How to Improve Your Critical Force, Training Endurance at Home, and Listener Q&A (Teaser)

    This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Ollie Torr returns to answer questions from Patrons! If you enjoyed my first episode with Ollie, don’t miss this Follow-Up. We discussed critical force and how to measure and improve it, tips for training endurance at home, training for overhangs with limited resources, the power of expectations, balancing multiple sports, BMI and performance, identifying weaknesses, and much more!

    Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! 

    *The full version is 2:49:54.

    *Watch the uncut video interview here!

    patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

    Ollie’s Original Episode:

    EP 153: Ollie Torr

    Follow-Up: Dave MacLeod — Lessons From Recent Diet Experiments, the 9a+ Goal, and Getting Stronger After Age 40 (Teaser)

    Follow-Up: Dave MacLeod — Lessons From Recent Diet Experiments, the 9a+ Goal, and Getting Stronger After Age 40 (Teaser)

    This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Dave MacLeod is back on the podcast! We talked about lessons from his latest diet experiments, his motivation for only eating Mcdonald's patties for two months, the effects that nutrition has on mental health, common nutrient deficiencies, LDL cholesterol and cardiovascular risk, his favorite tea, what he learned from doing the Lattice Assessment with Ollie Torr, his goal to climb 9a+ sport, why he no longer travels abroad, setting finger strength PRs after 18+ years of hangboarding, and much more!

    Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! 

    *The full version is 2:13:42.

    *Watch the uncut video interview here!

    patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

    Dave’s Other Episodes:

    EP 56: Dave MacLeod (Part 1)

    EP 57: Dave MacLeod (Part 2)

    Follow-Up: Hazel Findlay — Top 3 Performance Hacks (Teaser)

    Follow-Up: Hazel Findlay — Top 3 Performance Hacks (Teaser)

    This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Hazel Findlay is back on the podcast to talk about her new course, Performance Hacks. We talk about her top 3 performance hacks, the goal of the course, and Patrons can get a 10% discount code and hear Hazel share some recommendations for me as I try to send my project here in Switzerland.

    Join the Early-Bird Waitlist for Performance Hacks:

    go.strongmindclimbing.com/early-bird

    Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! 

    *The full version is 1:11:03.

    *Watch the uncut video interview here!

    patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

    Hazel’s Other Episodes:

    EP 81: Hazel Findlay (Aug 9, 2021)

    Reflections Series (for $10 and up Patrons!)

    Follow-Up: Steve Bechtel — Active Recovery: Everything You Need to Know (Teaser)

    Follow-Up: Steve Bechtel — Active Recovery: Everything You Need to Know (Teaser)

    This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Steve Bechtel is back on the podcast for a deep dive into active recovery. We discuss what the research says about active vs. passive recovery, what methods work best, why it’s better than sitting on the couch on your rest days, and we also tackle the practical side of things and discuss realistic options for active recovery between burns at the crag, how to have active rest days without doing too much, what deload weeks should look like, and common pitfalls to avoid.

    Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! 

    *The full version is 1:30:02.

    *Watch the uncut video interview here!

    patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

    Steve’s Other Episodes:

    EP 35: Steve Bechtel (Sept 14, 2020)

    Follow-Up: Steve Bechtel (Jan 21, 2021)

    Follow-Up #2: Steve Bechtel (Nov 11, 2021)

     

    Follow-Up: Katie Lamb — Sending ‘Spectre’ V14, and Breaking Down Crux Moves (Teaser)

    Follow-Up: Katie Lamb — Sending ‘Spectre’ V14, and Breaking Down Crux Moves (Teaser)

    This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up with Katie Lamb. We talked about her recent send of Spectre V14 in Bishop CA, breaking down crux moves into multiple pieces, how she trains on a spray wall, her top 5 go-to lifts in the weight room, projecting tricks, dopamine snacks vs. substance, what she learned from Spectre, having the travel bug, goals for 2023, and more!

    Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! 

    *The full version is 1:12:49.

    *Watch the uncut video interview here!

    patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

    Katie’s Original Episode:

    EP 145: Katie Lamb

     

    Follow-Up: Matt Heyliger — How I Rehabbed My Bicep Tendon Injury, and How to Make the Transition From Rehab Back to Training (Teaser)

    Follow-Up: Matt Heyliger — How I Rehabbed My Bicep Tendon Injury, and How to Make the Transition From Rehab Back to Training (Teaser)

    This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Matt Heyliger is back on the podcast and joins me to talk about my bicep tendon injury back in December in Hueco, my rehab process, and how I was able to get back to climbing V10 in less than three months. We discuss the different stages of recovery, using BFR as part of my rehab, how to make the transition back to training, and how I am currently training for an upcoming bouldering trip to Magic Wood and Rocklands.

    Matt's Website:

    mattheyliger.com

    Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! 

    *The full version is 1:31:47.

    *Watch the uncut video interview here!

    patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

    Matt’s Original Episode:

    EP 143: Matt Heyliger

     

    Follow-Up: Emil Abrahamsson — Gaining Weight to Climb His First V15, Overhauling His Training, and Thinking Long-Term With Projects (Teaser)

    Follow-Up: Emil Abrahamsson — Gaining Weight to Climb His First V15, Overhauling His Training, and Thinking Long-Term With Projects (Teaser)

    This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Emil Abrahamsson is back on the podcast to talk about sending his first V15. We talked about how gaining 15 lbs (6.5 kg) led to sending his hardest boulder, how and why he overhauled his training, how he’s achieved long-term finger strength gains, sending his most meaningful project with Power of Now V14, my goal to climb my first V13, his advice for me, and much more!

    Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! 

    *The full version is 2:06:03.

    *Watch the uncut video interview here!

    patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

    Emil’s Original Episode:

    EP 85: Emil Abrahamsson (Sept 6, 2021)

     

    How to Find (and Practice!) Your Self-Care Routine

    How to Find (and Practice!) Your Self-Care Routine

    We recorded this episode with Laura Jolley late last summer. I had found her yoga class in Grand Junction shortly after moving there and it changed the entire experience of a difficult phase of my life. With deep stretches and breath work, Laura helped me sink into emotional layers beneath all the chaos. I always walked away feeling relieved and more grounded. This conversation is a great reminder that even when I think calmer waters are just around the corner, life continues to bring challenges, just different ones. And taking time for myself, whether three minutes or an hour, is not just appropriate, but actually necessary. During this episode, Laura actually guides us through a short meditation. It’s amazing what closing your eyes and breathing can do. 

    We talk about how Yoga found her at age four, the pros and cons of in-class yoga versus hitting play on your phone, how empowering it feels to realize that we are actually in charge of our own happiness, and all the different ways and expressions of self-care, a widely used term that has become so cliche, and also a thread throughout my episodes. We so often live in the past or the future, trying to plan ahead, re-analyzing what happened, could have happened or should have happened. Ironically, all we really have is the present moment: Now. So how do we find the balance between being present and still functioning in society? Yoga is one method that brings us back into the body and the moment. But no matter what the practice, bottom line, when we slow down we stay in touch with ourselves and can learn how to fill our cup. 

    To learn more about Laura please visit https://www.laurajolley.com/

    If you happen to live in the Western Slopes, I highly recommend checking out her class at https://www.yogavstudio.com/home


     

    Laura’s recommendations for online yoga platforms:

    https://yogauonline.com/

    https://www.glo.com/

    https://yogainternational.com/


     

    Follow-Up: Tim Emmett — Lessons From 80+ Days on Era Vella 9a, and Changing His Diet to Thrive at Age 48 (Teaser)

    Follow-Up: Tim Emmett — Lessons From 80+ Days on Era Vella 9a, and Changing His Diet to Thrive at Age 48 (Teaser)

    This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Tim Emmett is back on the podcast to geek out about his project Era Vella 9a (5.14d). We talked about his Fall 2022 season in Spain, lessons from 80+ days projecting the route, how he changed his diet to feel his healthiest at age 48, discovering his own personal climbing mantra, finding flow state, the value of trying something at your limit, and much more!

    Check out Tim's Instagram post about Era Vella

    Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! 

    *The full version is 1:24:37.

    *Watch the uncut video interview here!

    patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

    Tim’s Original Episode:

    EP 107: Tim Emmett (Feb 21, 2022)

     

    Love & Loss

    Love & Loss

    Christie Blackmon grew up in northeast Ohio. She studied marketing and psychology at Kent State University and started climbing in her twenties. Her new passion led her to travel throughout the US, Mexico, Thailand and Spain and eventually settle in Colorado, where we met. 

    Though there have been stretches in our lives without seeing each other, last summer we spent a lot of time together in Grand Junction. Training at the gym was merely an excuse to talk for hours about all the things and with no filters. Christie feels like an older sister to me. I admire her, the life she has created with her family, the way she approaches climbing, how she treats her daughter Marissa and her relationship with her sweet husband, Michael. 

    Christie sent the Path (5.13c in Rifle Canyon) at age 44, one year after giving birth to Marissa. At the time this was her hardest route. Then, at age 48, she did Magnatar and Tomb Raider, also in Rifle, both 5.13ds. Her family has spent a lot of time in Spain where we got to climb with them and also meet her incredible mom, Joni. Sadly, she passed away not too long ago, but thankfully within the comfort of Christie’s own home. 

    It took time for Christie to be ready to speak about her mom’s death on my podcast. And when she was, she said: “I thought about what my mom would say, and she would have told me to do it”. Christie and I talk about things that probably most of us try not to think about: aging, death and losing a loved one. Topics that occupy many of our minds (whether consciously or not) but are hard, scary, yet inevitable. My dad is turning 80 this year. He is strong, his mind fresh, young at heart and his memory incredible. But the fact is, he is getting older. 

    My parents make jokes about how they are the ‘next ones on the line’. I get upset when they talk like that. But I guess for them it’s one way of dealing with the fact that they have lost a lot of friends their age and younger. Sometimes, it can feel as though death is just around the corner, waiting to take them away from me. Each time I get to see them is becoming more and more precious.

    I don’t think anyone can prepare us for the moment we have to let go of someone we love so deeply. But sharing our stories helps us remember that we are not alone. No one is exempt from losing someone close. And though we will always miss them, with time, the pain becomes less.

    Follow-Up: Aidan Roberts — Sending Alphane, Training for V18 Projects, and Listener Q&A (Teaser)

    Follow-Up: Aidan Roberts — Sending Alphane, Training for V18 Projects, and Listener Q&A (Teaser)

    This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Aidan Roberts is back on the podcast for a proper geek-out about cutting-edge bouldering! We talked about sending Alphane V17, how he and Ollie tweaked his approach to focus on power over the winter, his plans to try futuristic (V18) projects back in Switzerland, and Aidan answered your questions about his training, finger strength, board climbing, flexibility, nutrition, lifestyle, and more!

    Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! 

    *The full version is 2:53:31.

    *Watch the uncut video interview here!

    patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

    Aidan’s Original Episode:

    EP 142: Aidan Roberts (Oct 31, 2022)

    The Things That Keep Us Up At Night

    The Things That Keep Us Up At Night

    IF YOU ARE CURIOUS WHY MY PODCAST IS CALLED ‘KEGELS AND COFFEE’ THIS EPISODE HAS THE ANSWER FOR YOU! 

    Susan Vachon and I go way back to the California days. She danced for my company in 2009 and has been a friend for longer than that. Susan grew up in suburban New York. After completing her Masters degree in Health Science she became a Physician Assistant and made her way to the west coast where she felt more at home in the outdoor world. But this conversation is not about climbing or skiing, rather working less and sleeping more. Ironically, when we recorded this episode Susan had just thrown her back out after going full force for too long. We talk about:

    We talk about:

    • Sleep, or better, the lack of 💤
    • How to create a cozy nest to rest 🛏️
    • Why to keep it dark at night 🕶️
    • Susan’s childhood terror of aliens grabbing her feet from under the bed 👽
    • How at 4am our thoughts are totally out of control 🤯
    • When we don’t stop, our bodies will make us 🛑
    • What we would tell our 27-year old selves 👯
    • Stepping out of the work life rat race 🐀
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