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Charlie Schreiber returns to the podcast! Charlie joins me from Fontainebleau to talk about the epiphany he had in Rocklands, leaving his job to focus on Paradigm Climbing, teaming up with Alex Johnson, getting obsessed with ‘The Big Island’ 8C/V15, building a perfect replica of the boulder, how to train on your limit projects, the concept of the “ideal circuit”, and much more!

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We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

• Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt Walter

Show Notes:  

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/charlie-schreiber-returns

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:02:49) – Eating mangos in Fontainbleau

(00:05:00) – Epiphanies from his Rocklands trip

(00:09:15) – Capacity and the group psych

(00:12:06) – Strategy and resting hard

(00:15:22) – Sleep

(00:16:58) – Partnering with Alex Johnson

(00:20:45) – What is Paradigm Climbing?

(00:23:11) – Solving coaching puzzles

(00:25:22) – 9-week cycles

(00:27:34) – Deloads

(00:29:19) – The brain adapts faster than the body

(00:31:12) – Looking back and ahead

(00:36:46) – Stacking training programs

(00:42:15) – “It’s not your last day”

(00:45:31) – Having Martin Keller as a mentor

(00:46:37) – The similarity between training and performing

(00:48:13) – Supplemental training on trips

(00:50:44) – Conditions in Font, and ‘Karma’ 8A+/V12

(00:53:06) – ‘Getting psyched on The Big Island’ 8C/V15

(00:57:59) – Blanancing trips with his marriage

(01:00:15) – Building ‘The Big Island’ replica

(01:11:34) – How much does the replica cost?

(01:14:14) – Training on the replica

(01:22:21) – How to train on your project

(01:27:45) – How much progress did he make on the replica?

(01:29:16) – Progress and time remaining on his trip

(01:32:32) – How he is projecting the actual boulder, mobility, and sore ankles

(01:35:45) – Will Charlie train this way on future projects?

(01:38:40) – Will replicas unlock V18?

(01:40:15) – Nalle’s FA of ‘Burden of Dreams’ 9A/V17

(01:42:20) – The Ideal Circuit

(01:46:43) – Setting specific comp boulders for Adam Shahar

(01:51:32) – How you win comps vs. not lose comps

(01:54:42) – How to create your own Ideal Circuit

(01:56:30) – Creating your own boulders

(01:59:08) – Imposing demands

(02:01:48) – Wrap up and EXTRA teaser!

Place value with whole numbers is always more engaging with second graders when you add in games like Tic-Tac-Toe!

Believe it or not, math can be fun! With the help of a little bit of creativity, even 2nd-grade students can enjoy learning the place value of the digits and turning their math lesson into an interactive game of tic-tac-toe. Make kids smile and think differently about math class and the place value system with an engaging activity that will make them beg for more. Tune in to hear all the details to start having Tic Tac Toe playing time during your math lessons while learning about whole numbers with two-digit numbers and larger numbers and the position of a digit.

Links Mentioned in the Show:

OTT 205: Place Value: Math is Fun: 3 Games to Teach Place Value in the Classroom

CTA: Number Beat-It Freebie

https://trina-deboree-teaching-and-learning.my.canva.site/beat-it-number

Links Mentioned in the Show:

Makerspace Getting Started Kit

Subscribe and Review:

Are you subscribed to my podcast? If you’re not, I want to encourage you to do that today. I don’t want you to miss an episode. I’m adding a bunch of bonus episodes to the mix, and if you’re not subscribed, there’s a good chance you’ll miss out on those. Click here for iTunes.

Now, if you’re feeling extra loving, I would be really grateful if you left me a review over on iTunes, too. Those reviews help other people find my podcast, and they’re also fun for me to go in and read. Click here to leave a review, select “Ratings and Reviews” and “Write a Review,” and let me know what your favorite part of the podcast is. Thank you!

Subscribe and Review:

Are you subscribed to my podcast? If you’re not, I want to encourage you to do that today. I don’t want you to miss an episode. I’m adding a bunch of bonus episodes to the mix, and if you’re not subscribed, there’s a good chance you’ll miss out on those. Click here for iTunes.

Now, if you’re feeling extra loving, I would be really grateful if you left me a review over on iTunes, too. Those reviews help other people find my podcast, and they’re also fun for me to go in and read. Click here to leave a review, select “Ratings and Reviews” and “Write a Review,” and let me know what your favorite part of the podcast is. Thank you!

0:00 - Episode Introduction

1:10 - Conversation with Ijeoma Oluo 

31:20 - Conclusion

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Ijeoma Oluo is a Seattle-based writer, speaker, and Internet Yeller.  She’s the author of the New York Times Best-Seller So You Want to Talk about Race, published in January by Seal Press. Named one of the The Root’s 100 Most Influential African Americans in 2017, one of the Most Influential People in Seattle by Seattle Magazine, one of the 50 Most Influential Women in Seattle by Seattle Met, and winner of the of the 2018 Feminist Humanist Award by the American Humanist Society, Oluo’s work focuses primarily on issues of race and identity, feminism, social and mental health, social justice, the arts, and personal essay. Her writing has been featured in The Washington Post, NBC News, Elle Magazine, TIME, The Stranger, and the Guardian, among other outlets. 

____________________________________________________________

Life On The Margins is a Production of : 

The South Seattle Emerald  (https://southseattleemerald.com/)

_____________________________________________________________

Executive Producer + Host  // Marcus Harrison Green

Executive Producer + Host // Enrique Cerna

Additional Production Support Provided By // Hans Anderson & JEFFSCOTTSHAW

Music Provided By // Draze "The Hood Ain't The Same" // http://www.thedrazeexperience.com/about-draze/

Welcome to yet another exciting episode of Welcome to You Are Doom: A Frisky Dingo Podcast, with your hosts Bryan Dressel, Graham "Brother Power The Geek" Mason, and Matt "Phantom Lady" Dykes. This week our heroes discuss the episodes "The Miracle" and "The Middle" and get into all the craziness that that entails. You've got near-death religious experiences and a much more holey Killface. Good stuff all around and you dare not miss a moment of it.

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Welcome to You Are Doom is part of the ATH Network of podcasts.

Produced by Bryan Dressel and Jonathan Hardesty.

Hosted by Bryan Dressel with co-hosts Graham Mason and Matt Dykes

Artwork by Jonathan Hardesty

Notes and research by Jim Funicille

Edited by Bryan Dressel, Ryan James, and Trey Johnson.

Original music by Evan Michael Brown visit www.evbro.com for more.

Listen to Ijeoma Oluo talk about the need to Defund the Seattle Police Department : HERE

0:58 - Episode Introduction

1:45 - Interview with Lorena Gonzalez

29:00 - Series Credits

____________________________________________________________

Lorena Gonzalez   Born and raised in Washington's lower Yakima Valley to a Spanish-speaking migrant farmworker family, Councilmember González earned her first paycheck at the age of 8, alongside her parents and five siblings. She relied on scholarships and worked three jobs to attend community college and later Washington State University.

She moved to Seattle in 2002 to attend Seattle University Law School, where she graduated with honors in 2005. Since moving to Seattle, Councilmember González has lived in Capitol Hill, First Hill, Ballard, South Park and White Center.   As one of two at-large (citywide) representatives and the first Latinx elected to serve the Seattle City Council, Councilmember currently lives in the West Seattle Junction neighborhood (District 1) with her husband and their dog, Hugo.

  ____________________________________________________________

Produced In Partnership With :

Town Hall Seattle  (https://townhallseattle.org/)

The South Seattle Emerald  (https://southseattleemerald.com/)

_____________________________________________________________

Executive Producer + Host  // Marcus Harrison Green

Executive Producer + Host // Enrique Cerna

Additional Production Support Provided By // Hans Anderson & JEFFSCOTTSHAW

Music Provided By // Draze "The Hood Ain't The Same" // http://www.thedrazeexperience.com/about-draze/

Listen to Ijeoma Oluo talk about the need to Defund the Seattle Police Department : HERE

0:05 - Episode Introduction

1:02 - Interview with TraeAnna Holiday

28:05 - Looking Forward To Part Three

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TraeAnna Holiday  is a true Seattleite who has watched her city change in many ways. Through studying abroad and being displaced by gentrification, she's now fueled to tell her neighborhood's story through film and education.  TraeAnna is a community organizer with the King County Equity Now Coalition as well as the Africatown Community Land Trust. 

  ____________________________________________________________

Produced In Partnership With :

Town Hall Seattle  (https://townhallseattle.org/)

The South Seattle Emerald  (https://southseattleemerald.com/)

_____________________________________________________________

Executive Producer + Host  // Marcus Harrison Green

Executive Producer + Host // Enrique Cerna

Additional Production Support Provided By // Hans Anderson & JEFFSCOTTSHAW

Music Provided By // Draze "The Hood Ain't The Same" // http://www.thedrazeexperience.com/about-draze/

Listen to Ijeoma Oluo talk about the need to Defund the Seattle Police Department : HERE

0:00 - Episode Introduction

1:08 - Hosts Check In 

14:12 - Interview with Carmen Best

46:47 - Analysis with Erica C. Barnett

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Erica C. Barnett  is a feminist, an urbanist, and an obsessive observer of politics, transportation, and the quotidian inner workings of City Hall. She has been a writer and editor since the time of electric typewriters, is a contributing writer for the South Seatttle Emerald and has written for publications such as PubliCola, the Stranger, Seattle Weekly, Shakesville, the Austin Chronicle, and many more. Right now, she is walking around the city.  

  ____________________________________________________________

Produced In Partnership With :

Town Hall Seattle  (https://townhallseattle.org/)

The South Seattle Emerald  (https://southseattleemerald.com/)

_____________________________________________________________

Executive Producer + Host  // Marcus Harrison Green

Executive Producer + Host // Enrique Cerna

Additional Production Support Provided By // Hans Anderson & JEFFSCOTTSHAW

Music Provided By // Draze "The Hood Ain't The Same" // http://www.thedrazeexperience.com/about-draze/

0:00 - Episode Introduction

0:50 - Hosts Checking In 

1:45 - Conversation with Marcus Harrison Green & Patty Murray

12:28 - Host Recap

15:51 - Tribute to John Lewis

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Patricia Lynn Murray  is an American politician serving as the senior United States Senator from Washington, since 1993. A member of the Democratic Party, Murray previously served in the Washington State Senate and is Washington's first female U.S. Senator.

  ____________________________________________________________

Produced In Partnership With :

Town Hall Seattle  (https://townhallseattle.org/)

The South Seattle Emerald  (https://southseattleemerald.com/)

_____________________________________________________________

Executive Producer + Host  // Marcus Harrison Green

Executive Producer + Host // Enrique Cerna

Additional Production Support Provided By // Hans Anderson & JEFFSCOTTSHAW

Music Provided By // Draze "The Hood Ain't The Same" // http://www.thedrazeexperience.com/about-draze/

0:06 - Episode Introduction

1:28 - Hosts Checking In 

2:09 - Jini Palmer at CHOP

9:08 - Perspective of BLM King County Silent March

17:47 - Conversation with Elmer Dixon

41:16 - Meet Aileen Granstrom

44:56 - Host Recap

46:10 - Marcus Harrison Green's Crosscut Excerpt

____________________________________________________________

Elmer Dixon  was born in Chicago and moved to Seattle at age 7 when his father took a job at Boeing. Dixon grew up in Seattle’s Central District, attending Garfield High School. While at Garfield High, Dixon helped organize the school’s Black Student Union in 1968. That same year, with his older brother Aaron Dixon, he co-founded the Seattle Chapter of the Black Panther Party. He served the Chapter as its Field Marshall as well as the Breakfast Program Coordinator. When the Seattle Chapter closed its office and some of its core members moved to Oakland in 1972, Elmer, under parole and unable to move to Oakland, stayed in Seattle and reorganized the Chapter. He worked to sustain the Party’s breakfast program and health clinic, maintaining the Panther organization until 1976 and some programs into the 1980s. Elmer Dixon now works as a diversity consultant.

Aileen Granstrom  is a Elementary School Associate Teacher in Bellevue, as well as a dance instructor at the University of Washington.  You can find a video version Enrique's piece with Aileen Granstrom HERE 

  ____________________________________________________________

Produced In Partnership With :

Town Hall Seattle  (https://townhallseattle.org/)

The South Seattle Emerald  (https://southseattleemerald.com/)

_____________________________________________________________

Executive Producer + Host  // Marcus Harrison Green

Executive Producer + Host // Enrique Cerna

Executive Producer + Host // Jini Palmer

Additional Production Support Provided By // Hans Anderson & JEFFSCOTTSHAW

Music Provided By // Draze "The Hood Ain't The Same" // http://www.thedrazeexperience.com/about-draze/

0:16 - Episode Introduction

1:02 - Hosts Checking In 

13:07 - Conversation with Dr. Ben Danielson

27:49 - The Story of Manuel Ellis 

38:51 - Matt Chan's Commentary

40:52 - Host Recap

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Dr. Ben Danielson  was born in Boston, was placed in and then, in his words, rescued from foster care and raised by his single mom in Washington, D.C., and rural Montana. He went on to attend Harvard University and then UW to study medicine. He completed his residency at Seattle Children’s before assuming responsibility for the Odessa Brown Children’s Clinic in 1999.  Danielson runs the Odessa Brown Children’s Clinic, a pediatric care center based in the heart of Seattle’s Central District and sits on the boards of a number of organizations, including the Group Health Community Foundation, Equal Start Community Coalition, Health Coalition for Children and Youth, Children’s Alliance Public Policy Council, United Way of King County, The Washington State Health Exchange Board, and others.

Matt Chan  knows that storytelling begins with the audience – an idea that has driven his 45 years of award winning success in the television industry. Chan has worked in every facet of the industry, from operating television stations to running national television series. In 1998 he started his last business Screaming Flea Productions and over 14 years grew it to national prominence. His work created hits like A&E’s HOARDERS, and landed him a spot as one of the very few people of color on the Hollywood Reporter’s Top 50 Reality Power Producers list. His newest passion is to give back to the community, training and educating new generations of citizen journalists and storytellers for the new world of media..   ____________________________________________________________

Produced In Partnership With :

Town Hall Seattle  (https://townhallseattle.org/)

The South Seattle Emerald  (https://southseattleemerald.com/)

_____________________________________________________________

Executive Producer + Host  // Marcus Harrison Green

Executive Producer + Host // Enrique Cerna

Executive Producer + Host // Jini Palmer

Additional Production Support Provided By // Hans Anderson & JEFFSCOTTSHAW

Music Provided By // Draze "The Hood Ain't The Same" // http://www.thedrazeexperience.com/about-draze/

0:01 - Announcing Special Weekend Edition

0:24 - Episode Introduction

1:15 - Processing Together

7:12 - Conversation with Kert Lin

27:54 - Community Opinion by Matt Chan

30:36 - Episode Recap

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Kert Lin  is an Seattle Public  School elementary teacher and a new father.  

Matt Chan  knows that storytelling begins with the audience – an idea that has driven his 45 years of award winning success in the television industry. Chan has worked in every facet of the industry, from operating television stations to running national television series. In 1998 he started his last business Screaming Flea Productions and over 14 years grew it to national prominence. His work created hits like A&E’s HOARDERS, and landed him a spot as one of the very few people of color on the Hollywood Reporter’s Top 50 Reality Power Producers list. His newest passion is to give back to the community, training and educating new generations of citizen journalists and storytellers for the new world of media..   ____________________________________________________________

Produced In Partnership With :

Town Hall Seattle  (https://townhallseattle.org/)

The South Seattle Emerald  (https://southseattleemerald.com/)

_____________________________________________________________

Executive Producer + Host  // Marcus Harrison Green

Executive Producer + Host // Enrique Cerna

Executive Producer + Host // Jini Palmer

Additional Production Support Provided By // Hans Anderson & JEFFSCOTTSHAW

Music Provided By // Draze "The Hood Ain't The Same" // http://www.thedrazeexperience.com/about-draze/

On this episode of the Droid Life Show, you know we are talking about the Google Pixel 4. After a couple of rough leaks, Google decided to get out in front of the story this year and straight up revealed their next phone.

After talking Pixel 4 and everything we know, we need to catch up on Android Q Beta 4, our Moto Z4 review, OnePlus 7 Pro in Almond, a possible Essential Phone 2 launch, Google Stadia, and more. It's going to be a packed show full of some excellent topics.

Trivia is back again! We've got Google Play credit for all you winners.

This year we lost Ursula K Le Guin, a writer whose work began to shape my worldview when I first read her Earthsea books as a child. Here I attempt to pay tribute to the many ways Le Guin's work continued to change my life and discuss with examples how her writing has challenged and informed me as a reader, writer, scholar and activist, how she used the tools of science fiction and fantasy to great effect to inspire us to look at and describe the very real societies in which we live and where you might want to start if you are new to her work. There may be free pickles and almost certainly there will be spoilers (I would advise attendees to read Those Who Walk Away From Omelas as preparation: http://www.mccc.edu/pdf/eng102/Week%209/Text_LeGuin%20Ursula_Ones%20Who%20Walk%20Away%20From%20Omelas.pdf).