sends

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We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt Mickolas

Support on Patreon:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/mattias-braach-maksvytis

Show Notes:

Nuggets:

0:05:26 – Exhales and accents

0:08:02 – How Mattias and I first met outside a bathroom in Hueco

0:11:26 – Becoming “the Dyno guy” in Rocklands, and his dyno resume

0:18:16 – His first hard dynos, and early trips to Font

0:21:06 – Hotspots for dynos around the world, and the new 8C/V15 dyno in Spain

0:23:57 – Trying an obscure dyno in Bishop, and beta mining

0:25:36 – ‘The End’ 8A in Rocklands, and what makes a good dyno

0:28:08 – Dyno FAs in Rocklands, and dynos that are ahead of their time

0:32:12 – ‘Industry of Cool’ 8A+, getting better at coordination dynos, which types of dynos hold their grades

0:35:15 – How to grade a dyno, and categories of difficulty

0:41:01 – Mattias’ 8C dyno project, and having his best year of climbing ever

0:43:01 – Changing his mindset, and becoming more playful

0:51:58 – Needing reference points to determine grades

0:53:45 – Training for his 5-year dyno project

1:00:10 – Dyno technique, and breaking down the move

1:04:19 – Right-handed 8A dynos in Rocklands, and the morpho nature of dynos

1:08:36 – Nobody trains legs, how much Mattias weighs, and how increasing his leg strength helped his overall climbing

1:11:11 – Getting hit by a van, and how rehab made him stronger

1:13:36 – Why he was so psyched to send ‘Caroline’ 7C+

1:16:16 – Other trip highlights, and why lumbrical injuries have become more common

1:23:55 – Being a sub-max comfortable guy, and not needing to do projects right now

1:27:15 – Enjoying the chossy lowball, and letting go of pressure to send the mega

1:32:43 – Coercing Mattias to try ‘Black Shadow’ on his last day, and his level of fatigue at the end of the trip

1:36:41 – Why the Basecamp boulder took so long to get developed

1:37:43 – Spraying the tick list

1:42:45 – The key to having the best trip of your life

1:43:49 – Aligning your inspiration with your ability

1:46:27 – Is it possible to climb near your potential after 2 months in Rocklands?

1:49:45 – Starting his business ClimberCare

1:54:47 – Studying to become a doctor of PhysioTherapy, and his evolution as a climber

1:57:46 – Wobblers

2:03:34 – Ethan’s punt on ‘Rodan’ 33/8c/5.14b in Waterval Boven

2:07:00 – Self-deprecation and kindness

2:10:02 – Drawing inspiration from the mutants

2:11:21 – V14 goals

2:15:50 – Better yeet your meaties

Joni Eareckson Tada: Sharing Hope

enSeptember 12, 2023

God Does Not Withhold

Ask yourself today, what "good thing" did the Lord give you during your most difficult days? May God help you to treasure every good thing he sends your way when you walk uprightly – even through hard times. -------- Thank you for listening! Your support of Joni and Friends helps make this show possible. Joni and Friends envisions a world where every person with a disability finds hope, dignity, and their place in the body of Christ. Become part of the global movement today at www.joniandfriends.org. Find more encouragement on Instagram, TikTok, Facebook, and YouTube.

en-usSeptember 08, 2023

EP 184: Nic Rummel — Embracing Thickness, Lessons From 9 Years of Hangboarding, and Doing Whatever It Takes to Feel Like a Badass

Nic Rummel is an applied mathematician and expert boulderer. Ethan Pringle joins as co-host for another fun episode from Rocklands. We talked about embracing his nickname “Thick Nic”, lessons from working with Matt Fultz, sending V13 crimp boulders at 185 lbs, epic math projects, taking ballet to practice movement, the keys to a good spray wall, go-to hangboard protocols for epic finger strength, how lifting weights led to his best trip ever, finding mentorship in an 80-year-old climbing legend, and much more!

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We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

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Become a Patron:

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Show Notes:

Nuggets:

0:06:39 – Test, test, testing…

0:08:24 – How Thique Nic got his nickname, and embracing the body you’re given

0:15:02 – Viking-built, trucks vs. Mazdas

0:17:43 – Working with Matt & Hailey (Franklin) Fultz, and the confidence that comes with hitting strength benchmarks

0:20:39 – Everyone wants to be like someone else, and being proud of the climber you’ve become

0:23:29 – I’m on one, training for his local project in Fort Collins CO, and why he had such a successful trip to Rocklands

0:30:08 – Deloading, Nic’s job in missile tracking and detection, and going back to school for a graduate degree

0:35:23 – Needing more rest now that he is in school

0:36:14 – Nic’s longest boulder project vs. his math problem

0:41:29 – Applied math vs. pure math

0:46:00 – The math problem that took Nic the longest to solve

0:49:01 – Finding better beta on the JABE problem

0:54:06 – Mathing vs. bouldering, comparison, and balancing multiple passions

0:58:49 – Having a physical goal, an artistic goal, and an intellectual goal

1:00:04 – Artistic outlets, and making an art film

1:02:13 – Ballet

1:11:32 – Nic’s crimping journey

1:16:29 – Beating Matt Fultz to the 200 lb OTG, doing 58 pullups in a minute, and getting confidence from metrics

1:21:19 – Nic’s crimping journey continued, and long-term hangboard training

1:24:32 – Nic’s key takeaways from reading Ned Feehally’s book Beastmaking

1:26:07 – Doing a hangboarding workout before trying your project, and adapting over time

1:27:53 – Nic’s go-to hangboard protocols

1:32:09 – Nic’s top hangboard recommendation that he got from Will Anglin

1:34:15 – Nic’s thoughts on training micros

1:35:53 – When to do the Will Anglin workout, and doing long-duration hangs as part of his warmup

1:37:34 – Being warmup kings, and training less than usual

1:41:05 – Ethan’s feelings

1:42:41 – Nic’s secret crimp project, and doing the stand to Andramada

1:44:41 – Working on climbing movement, and how he set up his home wall to work on his weaknesses

1:47:56 – How the home wall facilitated community, and buying his house in Fort Collins

1:51:54 – The evolution of Nic’s home wall, and why he doesn’t like big holds on boards

1:56:04 – Ethan tries to convince Nic to try Scorsese 5.14c in the Poudre

1:57:45 – Setting as a creative outlet, and what he wishes he could change about his home wall

2:00:07 – Why Nic doesn’t recommend using T-nuts on a home wall

2:02:15 – Using electric scooters to get to Lincoln Lake

2:09:06 – Ethan hates on CO alpine bouldering, and the boys compare it to Eldo and the Flatirons

2:13:59 – How Nic ended up in Boulder, living on Paul’s land, and renovating his trailer

2:23:22 – Showering, splitting time between the trailer and his house, and having Paul as a mentor

2:28:54 – Wanting to feel like a badass, and finding balance

2:32:30 – Feeling content with his trip, getting sick, and sending Sky V13

2:35:59 – Lifting weights to keep up with his sister

2:38:02 – Taking measurements of his body, and how he’s changed over the years

2:39:04 – Nic’s brother, his siblings’ climbing, and a lesson from powerlifting

2:43:54 – Dream climbs, plans to try more V14s, and why he got hurt on his project

2:47:58 – Music City Hot Chicken

2:48:34 – Go-to breakfast

2:49:37 – Go-to climbing shoes

2:52:17 – Climbing in Red Feather

2:53:07 – Trap music

2:54:31 – Obtaining big goals

2:56:55 – Ethan talks about Nic’s send of Airstar V13

2:58:41 – Wrap up

A Moment with Joni Eareckson Tada

enSeptember 04, 2023

A Hopeful Future

God never sends you into times of suffering without reminding you that there’s a hopeful future. It won’t be this way forever and he will come for you!-------- Thank you for listening! Your support of Joni and Friends helps make this show possible. Joni and Friends envisions a world where every person with a disability finds hope, dignity, and their place in the body of Christ. Become part of the global movement today at www.joniandfriends.org Find more encouragement on Instagram, TikTok, Facebook, and YouTube.

enSeptember 02, 2023

EP 183: Jenn DeBellis — Chasing Dream Boulders, Turning Small Wins Into Big Wins, and Sustaining a Full-Time Job on the Road

Jenn DeBellis is an elite-level boulderer and software engineer. We sat down in Rocklands and talked about her biggest lessons from childhood gymnastics and collegiate athletics, trying V13s in Magic Wood and Rocklands, getting comfortable with failure, learning to embrace her style, her elaborate warmup routine, how she plans her 6-week training cycles, her role with KAYA, tips for sustaining a full-time job on the road, and much more!

Check out The Nugget on YouTube:

youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbing

The Nugget is brought to you by BetterHelp!

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We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt Mickolas

Support on Patreon:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jenn-debellis

Show Notes:

Nuggets:

0:04:57 – Bugs and SAT words

0:06:39 – Jenn’s gymnastics background, and pole vaulting in college

0:11:12 – Paying attention to the best qualities in our friends

0:13:15 – Tough coaches, and learning to be tough on herself

0:15:00 – Being comfortable with failure, and Jenn’s Olympic aspirations in gymnastics

0:19:26 – Setting the scene

0:20:09 – Getting inspired by Ray of Light V13, and Jenn’s initial goals for her trip to Rocklands

0:22:24 – The breakdown of Ray of Light, and the standards in Rocklands

0:24:10 – V10 and 8A, and the decision to try really hard and inspiring things

0:26:30 – The 8a leaderboard, and shift her philosophy to chase dream boulders

0:30:50 – My new shoe mod for Black Shadow

0:34:08 – Getting excited about “sending” crux moves, and turning small wins into big wins

0:35:59 – Trying beyond limit boulders, and making tradeoffs

0:40:21 – Jenn and I compare our experiences with Black Shadow and Ray of Light, and share takeaways

0:48:00 – The climbers we’ve learned from, and the truth about people who climb hard

0:51:04 – Owning your style, not falling into the pitfall of trying to copy your peers, and trying Full Throttle V13 in Hueco

0:57:23 – How living on the road has changed my perception of climbing, and different ways you can express difficulty in climbing

0:59:06 – Working on her strengths and supplementing her weaknesses

1:01:20 – Thinking about her training in checkboxes

1:03:14 – Not knowing where home is, and having many homes on the road

1:08:28 – Jenn’s lifestyle, leaving her PhD program to live in a van

1:15:05 – How Jenn balances indoor training and outdoor performance

1:17:49 – How she plans her training cycles, and using autoregulation to ramp up after a trip

1:21:29 – “Injury is the enemy.”

1:22:12 – How Jenn balances her climbing life with a full-time remote job

1:23:46 – Life is 30% less efficient on the road

1:25:49 – Tips for finding cheap rent in cities

1:26:54 – The dirtbag mindset, how to make working on the road sustainable

1:31:13 – How Jenn structures a 6-week training block, and the key ingredients in her training

1:33:07 – Weight lifting, and cutting out accessory exercises

1:35:07 – Board climbing, and how to train for something like Full Throttle

1:36:46 – Jenn’s long-ass climbing warmup

1:40:21 – The different stages of Jenn’s warmup

1:41:28 – Keeping training and outdoor trips separate

1:43:45 – Improving year on year

1:44:54 – Upcoming trips and goals, and training 4x4s on her home wall

1:47:53 – KAYA, Jenn’s role on the engineering team, and her passion for her work

1:54:44 – Favorite rock type, and thinking better on granite

1:57:08 – Ultimate dream climbs, and meaningful first female ascents

1:59:34 – Joe’s Valley doughnuts

2:01:11 – Kodiak Cakes

2:02:06 – Go-to climbing shoes

2:02:17 – Jenn’s connection to Joe’s Valley, and how she became a software engineer

2:05:02 – Desert Island DVDs

2:06:31 – Hype music

2:08:27 – Best decision she’s ever made, and how long she sees herself living this lifestyle

2:11:42 – Thoughts about having a family and drawing inspiration from strong moms

2:12:42 – What Jenn wishes people spent less time thinking about

2:14:25 – Building out her van

2:17:36 – Toying with the idea of bringing back blogs

2:19:45 – Wrapping up in the dark

enAugust 28, 2023

EP 182: Carlos Tkacz & Steph Letourneau — Lessons From 7 Trips to Rocklands, Being Good at Being Consistent, and Writing Novels

Carlos Tkacz returns and is joined by his partner Steph Letourneau for a sitdown here in Rocklands. We talked about their diet habits, lessons from their 7 trips to Rocklands, learning to try harder, comparison games, respecting the difficulty of climbing, being good at being consistent, balancing your carbon footprint, making the most of a climbing trip to South Africa, writing novels, and much more!

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We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt Mickolas

Become a Patron:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/carlos-and-steph

Carlos's Previous Episode:

EP 58: Carlos Tkacz

Show Notes:

Nuggets:

0:03:36 – Breakfast and food habits

0:06:24 – Trading climbing days with your partner

0:08:48 – Resting more to climb harder

0:11:01 – 7 trips to Rocklands apiece, and how to make long flights better

0:13:12 – Teaching and going back to school

0:19:01 – Why Carlos and Steph keep coming back to Rocklands year after year

0:21:23 – Steph’s experience on her first trip to Rocklands, and why both of them prefer bouldering to trad climbing

0:28:01 – Describing Rocklands’ style, Carlos’ first 8B ‘Monkey Business', and learning to try harder

0:33:10 – Steph’s lesson in trying hard, practicing her yell in the car, and getting hyped on Adele

0:37:21 – Carlos' experience watching a guy yell in Thailand, Coach Carlos, and asking if people want feedback

0:39:50 – Steph’s send of ‘Ghost in the Darkness’ 7C/+, and trying ‘Caroline’ 7C+

0:43:02 – Carlos’ tick list from the trip, sending ‘Airstar’ 8B, and reconnecting with the joy of climbing

0:46:16 – What helped Carlos change his mindset, and sending ‘Into the Void’ 8B

0:50:01 – Sending ‘Airstar’, and drawing inspiration from “the kids”

0:52:36 – Favorite Rocklands films

0:57:21 – Struggling with comparison games, respecting the difficulty of climbing, and doing your best

1:07:35 – Climbing is centralizing, and mental energy as a finite resource

1:09:42 – Unpacking my feelings about not progressing quickly enough, and our American obsession with speed

1:12:21 – Being good at being consistent

1:14:12 – Dopamine hits vs. building relationships with climbs

1:19:22 – Growing as a climber in Rocklands, and the stories we tell ourselves

1:22:13 – My shift in mindset in Rocklands, and redefining a lifetime worth of climbing

1:24:47 – Steph talks about how every season in Rocklands is a completely different experience

1:27:02 – Getting the most out of the experience in South Africa, and learning about the place and its history and politics

1:35:27 – Taking breaks from climbing to have other experiences

1:41:53 – Planning the whole year around their Rocklands trips, and doing two 12-week training blocks

1:45:47 – Teaching

1:55:41 – Flying, carbon footprint, and how our brains make shortcuts

2:06:29 – Being a park person, and how we’ve impacted nature

2:09:26 – Steph’s thoughts on climate from a physics perspective, and trying to be carbon neutral on balance

2:16:59 – Offsetting CO2 emissions

2:20:44 – How they fit their 12-week training blocks into a school semester

2:23:27 – The Training Trip, and building a community in Vegas

2:28:59 – Nesting and baby fever

2:33:04 – Training Weight, and the commitment to family

2:36:16 – Carlos’ new book list

2:40:31 – Speculative fiction

2:42:09 – Carlos’ latest book projects, and Steph’s first novel

2:45:59 – Carlos’ horror film

2:48:19 – Steph’s new book project, and where to find her first book

2:49:54 – Publishing a book

2:53:04 – The feedback Steph got from her publisher

2:54:58 – The Day You Became A Better Writer by Scott Adams

2:56:23 – Having a family, ‘Sky’ as the final boss of the 8Bs, and making the horror movie

2:58:24 – Enjoying the process

2:59:40 – What’s next?

youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbing

enAugust 21, 2023

EP 181: Charlie Schreiber, Adam Shahar, Noah & Benn Wheeler — Accidentally Flashing V13, Board Training, and Ultimate Dream Sends

It’s another Northeast takeover in Rocklands! Charlie Schreiber returns to the podcast and is joined by Adam Shahar, and brothers Noah and Benn Wheeler. Ethan Pringle joins us and keeps the fire stoked for this unhinged six-person podcast. The lads gave us the tick list from their first ten days in Rocklands, and we geeked out about board training, favorite FAs, and ultimate dream boulders and routes. Tune in for a dose of fun and inspiration with these young crushers!

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We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt Mickolas

Support on Patreon:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/charlie-adam-noah-benn

Show Notes:

Nuggets:

0:04:26 – Izzo’s legendary ascent of Eternia in Upper Chaos, and debating whether V12 or 1200 in chess is harder

0:09:15 – Youth worlds and these boys trips outdoors

0:14:47 – Charlie’s tick list (first 10 days in Rocklands)

0:19:06 – Adam’s tick list (first 10 days in Rocklands)

0:26:21 – The boys' skin

0:29:22 – Noah’s tick list (first 10 days in Rocklands)

0:34:01 – Ben’s tick list (first 10 days in Rocklands)

0:37:20 – Charlie’s coach role on the trip

0:38:21 – Remaining Rocklands goals, and goals back home

0:40:46 – Noah’s first weekend of outdoor bouldering, and Benn’s worn-out Nikes

0:42:56 – Getting hooked

0:51:47 – Home crags in the Northeast

0:55:16 – V17 monsters, and futuristic projects

0:57:11 – College plans, and projects in the South Platte

0:58:41 – Brother dynamics

1:00:45 – Sponsorships in climbing vs other sports

1:02:38 – Is there V17 potential in the Northeast?

1:04:06 – Plans to try established V16s

1:09:23 – Boulders the boys struggled with, and Charlie’s big win on Mooiste Meisei

1:16:37 – Favorite boulders in Rocklands, Troy’s send of Black Shadow, and plans to return for Livin’ Large and The Finnish Line

1:21:09 – How the Wheeler boys are different, and Benn’s World Cup aspirations

1:24:24 – Noah’s finger strength

1:26:16 – Board gods

1:34:33 – Board grades vs. Rocklands grades

1:37:38 – Noah’s experience of gaining finger strength and risking injury on the Moonboard

1:38:51 – Using the hangboard for rehab and testing

1:40:17 – Nationals, and comp specialists

1:42:04 – Is board climbing the key to climbing hard on rock?

1:42:43 – Adam’s weaknesses

1:43:26 – Noah’s weaknesses

1:46:52 – Winning with your strengths and not losing because of your weaknesses

1:49:37 – Benn’s weaknesses

1:52:37 – Adam’s proudest FAs

1:54:14 – Noah’s proudest FAs

1:56:03 – Another proud FA from Adam

1:57:34 – Benn’s proudest FAs

1:59:23 – Charlie’s proudest FAs

2:01:36 – Ethan’s FA of Wet Dream when he was 17

2:06:29 – Ethan’s proudest highball FA, and other highballs in Bishop

2:08:13 – Ethan’s big wall FA in Greenland in 2012

2:09:33 – My FA of Pale Horse

2:10:49 – Ultimate dream boulders (and routes)

2:18:05 – Sport climbing aspirations

2:19:24 – Three more goals each

2:24:07 – Airstar

2:26:05 – Ethan and I share our three goals for our remaining time in Rocklands

2:32:16 – These boys are the future

Pawtuckaway Bouldering - Warrior V3

enAugust 14, 2023

EP 180: Troy Fauteux, Austin Hoyt, & Bryce Viola — Times We Almost Died, Toe Hook Training, and Laughs and Sends in Rocklands

It’s a Northeast takeover here in Rocklands! Austin Hoyt returns to the podcast and is joined by Troy Fauteux and Bryce Viola. The boys sat down with me and Ethan Pringle for a fireside chat at our cabin. These guys are all total crushers and most importantly, they have a lot of fun. Join us for a crackling good time!

Huge thank you to Liam Andrews-Bancroft for the incredible music at the end of this episode.

Troy's Video:

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drinkAG1.com/NUGGET

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WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!

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RockyTalkie.com/Nugget

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We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt Mickolas

Become a Patron:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/troy-austin-bryce

Austin's Previous Episode:

EP 97: Austin Hoyt

Show Notes:

Nuggets:

0:07:13 – Flipping cars and stealing clothes

0:12:00 – “Brad… it's, it’s bad.”

0:18:15 – Troy’s top 3 most scary climbing experiences

0:26:26 – Plans for Tuesday and Monkey Wedding

0:28:13 – Living Large and Finish Line

0:31:13 – Progress on Monkey Wedding, and Austin’s longest project

0:32:43 – Austin’s efforts on Lucid Dreaming, and Alex Megos taping video

0:35:13 – Quintessential and Industry of Cool

0:38:25 – Bryce’s trip so far

0:39:52 – Favorite zones in Rocklands

0:43:24 – Pure, and how fast the level is changing

0:45:36 – Highlights from Rocklands, and having fun

0:48:59 – Industry of Cool, hiking 300+ miles to send The Nest, and unfinished business in Spain

0:52:45 – Sport climbing aspirations, and Max Zolotukhin falling off of Super Nova while trying to free solo it

0:58:17 – Challenging access, and do New England climbers have more fun?

1:02:03 – Potential and rock quality in the NE, and Bryce’s job

1:09:07 – Troy’s job detailing cars, and climbing in West Virginia

1:11:32 – Austin’s tick list

1:14:14 – The variety of styles in Rocklands, and toe hook training

1:16:48 – How long everyone has been climbing, and the BMX connection

1:20:02 – The new crop of young talent

1:24:42 – Most recent comps, and the shorter shelf life of top-level competitors

1:29:41 – Ultimate dream boulders

1:31:31 – Trying climbs way above and below your level, and the V15 goal

1:34:49 – Ethan’s goal to find 5.15 in the Sierra Nevada, and the rarity of all-natural hard routes

1:38:01 – Choss and rain and Hueco, and Ethan’s top 3 favorite bouldering areas

1:41:30 – Almost dying on the topout of The Mandala

1:42:58 – “Dad I’m bread. ”

1:44:31 – Will we climb until we die?

1:45:57 – Mystery climbs in Rocklands

1:48:18 – The drunk comp, and the Anchorman of climbing

1:51:59 – The Lifetime Project guy

1:53:44 – Milkshakes and final goals for the trip

1:57:28 – Airstar getting action

1:58:51 – Ethan’s most epic bat hangs

1:59:58 – Austin’s send of Direct North

2:01:00 – Near misses