Podcast Summary
From simple beginnings to a critic's mission: A humble food background didn't hinder Pete Wells from becoming a influential restaurant critic, teaching readers the value of high-end dining experiences.
Pete Wells, the renowned New York Times restaurant critic, had a humble beginning with food, growing up with simple dining experiences and continuing that trend as a young writer in New York City. However, when he became the New York Times restaurant critic, he saw his mission as helping readers determine if expensive dining experiences were worth the investment. Despite his love for affordable eats and home cooking, he recognized the importance of evaluating high-end dining in New York. His journey from a simple food background to a critic with significant influence in the fine dining world showcases the transformative power of experiences and opportunities.
Helping New Yorkers navigate expensive dining scene: Critic Pete Wells assigns stars to restaurants based on overall reaction to service, atmosphere, and food, considering price, and distinguishes between worthwhile splurges and overpriced disappointments
The New York City food critic, Pete Wells, believed a crucial aspect of his job was to help people navigate the city's expensive dining scene by distinguishing between worthwhile splurges and overpriced disappointments. He did this by assigning stars to restaurants based on his overall reaction to the service, atmosphere, and food, taking price into account. He reserved the highest rating, "extraordinary," for a select few restaurants that came very close to perfection despite their complexities and human imperfections. For instance, Le Bernardin, a French restaurant in Midtown, received a 4-star review from Pete for its exquisite dishes, like sautéed black bass with black garlic, pomegranate, and lime, and steamed halibut with beet sauce and crème fraîche, which were worth the hefty price tag.
NYT Critic Pete Wells' Harsh Review of Per Se: Critic Pete Wells downgraded Per Se's rating, sparking debate on food justice and restaurant excellence.
New York Times restaurant critic Pete Wells is known for his candid and critical reviews, particularly when he feels a restaurant is not delivering value for its high price point. His eviscerating review of Per Se, a renowned fine dining establishment, became notorious when he downgraded its rating from four to two stars, citing unimpressive dishes and extortionate upsells. The public reaction was strong, with some praising his food justice while others criticized the harshness of his words. Regardless, Wells' reviews uphold the high standards and expectations of fine dining, pushing restaurants to strive for excellence.
Exploring new dining options during the pandemic: Critics adapt to changing dining culture by shifting focus from high-end restaurants to street food and pop-ups, recognizing the need for a new approach to reviewing them
The dining scene drastically changed during the pandemic, with high-end restaurants shutting down or transitioning to outdoor dining, leaving critics like the speaker to explore new, less fancy options. The speaker shared how they went from dining at expensive, aspiring 4-star restaurants to trying out street food and pop-ups, sitting on the sidewalk or even the hood of their car. This shift in dining culture made it challenging for critics to review these places using the traditional star rating system, as the focus was no longer on creating the perfect meal but rather on survival. The speaker expressed their intention to write about these new discoveries but recognized the need for a new approach to reviewing them.
A food critic's shift from stars to experiences: A critic's personal perspective can evolve, but external factors may dictate tradition over innovation
Pete Wells, a food critic for The New York Times, shifted his perspective from judging restaurants based on stars to connecting readers to unique experiences. This change was met with resistance from some readers and higher-ups at The Times, who saw the stars as an integral part of the publication's identity. Despite his reservations, Wells continued to embrace his new approach until it was mandated that he return to using stars in his reviews. The reasoning behind this command was that the stars were deeply ingrained in The New York Times' history and were seen as a significant part of the publication's brand. Wells expressed frustration with being overshadowed by the stars but ultimately accepted the change, recognizing that his role was to connect readers to intriguing dining experiences rather than solely evaluating their quality.
New York Times restaurant critic reintroduces star ratings with a visit to a Puerto Rican pork trailer: The New York Times restaurant critic reintroduced the star rating system with a visit to a unique Puerto Rican pork trailer in the South Bronx, highlighting its joy of discovery, old-school charm, and exceptional quality.
Pete Wells, the New York Times restaurant critic, reintroduced the star rating system in a more flexible way after a year-long absence. He wanted to signal a change in his approach and visited various places before deciding to review a Puerto Rican pork trailer, La Piranha, in the South Bronx. The experience embodied the joy of discovery, old-school charm, and dedication of the chef, which he felt was unique and worth recognizing. He gave it three stars, acknowledging its exceptional quality and uniqueness in the city. The reaction to the review was positive, with readers appreciating the new perspective and the recognition of the unique atmosphere and service that the star system had not previously taken into account.
The unexpected Michelin stars for a pork trailer: The Michelin stars unexpectedly awarded to a pork trailer highlighted the importance of trying new things and embracing the unexpected in the ever-evolving world of dining.
The unexpected assignment of three Michelin stars to a pork trailer in New York City elicited a range of reactions, from surprise and delight to shock and disbelief. The experience of visiting the restaurant, which specializes in North Vietnamese food, was unconventional and chaotic, with diners helping to set up their own table in the street. The food itself was unique and intriguing, with dishes like stuffed snails that challenged expectations. Despite initial skepticism, the experience proved to be a memorable and enjoyable one. The unexpected use of the Michelin stars platform showcased the importance of trying new things and embracing the unexpected. Ultimately, the experience reminded us that the world of dining is constantly evolving and that there is always something new to discover.
Trying new foods can lead to unexpected discoveries: Open-mindedness and embracing the unexpected can lead to newfound appreciation for unfamiliar foods and experiences.
The experience of trying new and unfamiliar foods, even those initially perceived as challenging or unappealing, can lead to surprising and delightful discoveries. The speaker in this conversation was initially hesitant about a dish called Bundau Mamtong, finding its sauce to be intense and overpowering. However, after further tasting and reflection, they came to appreciate its unique and addictive flavor. This experience validated the reviewer's new approach to food criticism, which emphasizes the importance of open-mindedness and embracing the unexpected. The speaker also reflected on the broader implications of this shift in perspective for criticism in general, questioning whether the role of the critic is to sort and judge, or to explore and discover. Ultimately, the speaker expressed their gratitude for the experience and their newfound appreciation for the transformative power of trying new things.
Questioning the Limits of Industry Standards: Top performers and critics can set industry standards, but it's important to question these limitations and consider new possibilities.
The role of top performers and critics in setting industry standards can be limiting, and it's essential to question these limitations. The food industry, like others, is defined by its top performers, but the definition of the top can be subjective. For instance, a high-end French restaurant may be seen as the pinnacle of dining, but the best version of Puerto Rican food or Vietnamese outdoor dining experience can also be considered top-tier. Similarly, movie critics have historically reviewed every movie in New York City, but the idea that only major studio films with well-known actors and big budgets are reviewable is a limitation that can be challenged. Pete Wells, a food critic, discussed the implications of not policing the top of the industry as strictly as before. He acknowledged that his perspective may not last forever and that new ideas, priorities, and experiences will come. In essence, it's crucial to consider the limitations of established systems and be open to new possibilities.
Two executives confess to federal crimes, aiding in FTX founder's prosecution: Two high-ranking executives of FTX have confessed to federal crimes and are cooperating with authorities in the prosecution of the company's founder, Sam Bankman Fried, who is accused of masterminding a multi-year fraud that drained investors of over a billion dollars.
Two high-ranking executives of the failed cryptocurrency exchange FTX have confessed to federal crimes and are aiding in the prosecution of the company's founder, Sam Bankman Fried. This development is a concerning sign for Bankman Fried, who has been brought back to the U.S. from the Bahamas to answer to numerous criminal charges himself. The U.S. authorities accuse Bankman Fried of masterminding a multi-year fraud that drained investors of over a billion dollars. Today's episode of The Daily was produced by Rob Zivko and Claire Tenesketter, with contributions from Jessica Cheung and Rochelle Bongja. It was edited by MJ Davis Lin and Michael Benoit, with assistance from Lisa Chow. The original music was composed by Alisha Baytou, Mary Lozano, and Daniel Powell, and the engineering was handled by Chris Wood. Our theme music comes from Jim Brunberg and Ben Landsberg of Wonderly. That's it for today's episode of The Daily. I'm Michael Barbaro. We'll be back on Monday.
