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    The Sunday Read: ‘The Beauty of 78.5 Million Followers’

    enApril 04, 2021

    Podcast Summary

    • The Influence of Social Media on Modern Beauty StandardsSocial media has transformed beauty standards, with influencers and constant visual feedback shaping perceptions and driving the industry's trends.

      Our obsession with visual appearance and the influence of social media on the beauty industry has drastically changed how we perceive and value beauty. In the 1990s, refusing to take pictures was a personal choice that led to a lack of visual records. Contrastingly, today, we live in a "totally visual, virtual culture," where taking selfies and scrolling through social media platforms like Instagram and TikTok are the norm. This cultural shift is exemplified by the rise of young influencers like Addison Rae, who gained massive popularity on TikTok and later launched her own makeup line. The beauty industry has capitalized on this trend by using influencers to promote their products and reach millions of subscribers. The pressure to look good and fit in is immense, and the virtual world often blurs the lines between reality and perception. This is a stark contrast to the past, where taking pictures was seen as devaluing something, and people didn't have the constant visual feedback that social media provides today.

    • Influencers and celebrities creating their own beauty brandsThe beauty industry is evolving with influencers and celebrities driving trends, blurring lines between creators and consumers, and boosting spending to an all-time high.

      The beauty industry is undergoing a major shift, with influencers and celebrities like Addison Rae leveraging their clout to create their own brands and products. This trend is particularly prominent in the United States, where beauty and personal care spending reached an all-time high of $92.8 billion in 2019. The rise of social media platforms like YouTube, Instagram, and TikTok has made beauty a pop culture phenomenon, with interactive content and transformative videos driving trends and engagement. The industry, once criticized for promoting unrealistic beauty standards, is now embraced as a universal good in our virtual society. Influencers and celebrities are no longer just endorsing products but co-creating them, blurring the lines between consumer and creator. This shift is transforming the way the beauty industry operates and presents a new opportunity for innovation and inclusivity.

    • From local enterprise to global phenomenon: The evolution of the beauty industryThe beauty industry has evolved from a local enterprise to a global phenomenon, driven by self-expression, self-care, and the pursuit of attractiveness. Legacy brands founded by eccentric figures continue to thrive, particularly in China, and individuals in the industry remain poised and resilient amidst challenges.

      The beauty industry has evolved significantly over the centuries, from a local enterprise to a global phenomenon driven by self-expression, self-care, and the pursuit of attractiveness. Beauty companies have capitalized on our desire to enhance our appearance and project an attractive image, especially in the digital age where we are more visible than ever. Founded by eccentric figures like Estee Lauder, Helena Rubinstein, Max Factor, and Elizabeth Arden, these legacy brands have stood the test of time and continue to thrive, particularly in China where there is a growing addiction to American beauty products. Despite the environmental chaos and the challenges of the pandemic, individuals in the industry, like Ray, remain poised and spunky, understanding that intimacy and self-presentation are key currencies in the beauty world.

    • Beauty Industry Shifts Towards Independence and InclusivityThe beauty industry is evolving with the rise of independent brands, e-commerce platforms, and a focus on inclusivity, driven by cultural innovations and a new generation of entrepreneurs.

      The beauty industry is undergoing significant changes, moving away from the traditional corporate structure towards independent brands and e-commerce platforms. Bobbi Brown, a former corporate beauty executive, is one of many industry veterans turning to independence. Older brands are struggling to innovate and grow, and the role of retail is becoming less clear as more consumers shop online. The COVID-19 pandemic has accelerated these trends, with e-commerce companies, big box retailers, and Amazon seeing increased sales. Rihanna's Fenty Beauty line, which focuses on creating foundations that match a wide range of skin tones, is an example of the cultural innovations that are driving this shift. The industry is also becoming more inclusive, with a greater focus on representing the true spectrum of American skin tones and featuring diverse models in advertisements. These changes are being driven by a new generation of entrepreneurs and CEOs who are challenging the industry's hegemony and pushing for greater representation and inclusivity.

    • Representation and diversity in the beauty industryBrands collaborate with diverse influencers to connect with fans and promote wellness, but influencer-brand relationships can be complex, requiring authentic partnerships for meaningful change and true representation.

      Representation and diversity are becoming increasingly important factors in the beauty industry, driven by consumer demand and influential voices. Brands are responding by forming larger entities and collaborating with diverse influencers to connect with fans and promote wellness. Ray, a successful TikToker turned beauty entrepreneur, embodies this trend, having built her brand around unvarnished cheer and collaborative brainstorming. However, the relationship between influencers and brands can be more complex than it seems, with influencers often serving as de facto mouthpieces and manufacturers doing most of the behind-the-scenes work. As the industry continues to evolve, it's crucial to ensure that these partnerships lead to meaningful change and true representation.

    • Manufacturers and Influencers: A New Beauty DuoManufacturers collaborate with influencers for licensing deals, sharing ownership and profits. Social media reach and influence shift power dynamics. Ray's lip gloss brand success from 73M followers.

      The role of manufacturers in the beauty industry is evolving, particularly in relation to influencers. Traditional licensing deals have given way to collaborative partnerships where influencers and manufacturers share ownership and profits. This shift in power dynamics is influenced by the immense reach and influence of social media stars, who can now match or surpass the clout of established beauty critics. Ray, for instance, leveraged her 73 million followers to promote her new lip gloss brand without having to defer to traditional beauty influencers. Additionally, the rise of influencer marketing has changed the way beauty content is consumed, with tutorials and demonstrations becoming central to beauty culture. However, what sets successful influencers apart is not just their ability to create engaging content, but also their dedication to their craft and the labor that goes into achieving their looks.

    • Exploring the intersection of authenticity and commercialization in beauty influencer's journeysBeauty influencer's self-care and empowerment messages can blur into commercialization, requiring a balance between authenticity, identity expression, and fanbase impact.

      Self-care and empowerment through beauty routines and self-presentation are important themes for many women, including social media influencers like Ray. However, the line between authenticity and commercialization can be blurred, as seen in Ray's transition from promoting a natural look to endorsing various products and collaborating with established celebrities like Kylie Jenner and Kourtney Kardashian. This journey raises questions about the motivations behind these actions and the impact on the influencer's authenticity and fanbase. Ultimately, it's crucial for individuals to strike a balance between taking care of themselves, expressing their unique identities, and being mindful of the messages they send to their followers.

    • Instagram Influencing Beauty StandardsInstagram's influence on beauty standards has led to a homogeneous set of ideals, focusing on smoothness, thinness, firmness, and youth, despite the expansion of celebrated skin tones.

      The beauty industry, influenced by social media, has led to the widespread adoption of a surprisingly homogeneous set of beauty standards, often referred to as "Instagram face." Kylie Jenner, a young entrepreneur and social media influencer, became a symbol of this trend with her distinctive features and massive following. However, her wealth and the authenticity of her image have been subject to controversy. Despite the expansion of celebrated skin tones, the definition of beauty remains largely unchanged, focusing on smoothness, thinness, firmness, and youth. These standards, while sometimes shifted by influencers, do not challenge the overall norms but rather embed them deeper. As consumers, especially teenagers, are increasingly image-literate, the influence of these standards on self-perception remains a significant concern.

    • Innovation in beauty industry stalled due to regulations and absence of animal testingDespite the hype around new and exotic ingredients, many additives may not significantly enhance product performance. High-end and budget brands offer similar benefits, and consumers may be buying a story or illusion rather than actual product differentiation.

      While consumers are drawn to new and exotic ingredients in beauty products, many of these additives may not significantly enhance the product's performance. Cosmetic chemist Perry Romanowski explained that innovation in the industry has stalled due to regulations and the absence of animal testing, leading to limited differentiation between high-end and budget brands. He also questioned the effectiveness of high-end moisturizers, suggesting that many are mostly marketing fluff. Makeup, according to Romanowski and beauty influencer Ray, serves as a tool for self-expression and enhancement. However, as Ray's openness about her personal struggles demonstrates, the contemporary beauty culture narrative of self-acceptance and embracing flaws is only part of the story. Ultimately, consumers may be purchasing a story or illusion, but as Ray noted, it can bring happiness.

    • The pressure and anxiety of social media's beauty standardsSocial media's idealized beauty standards can lead to self-hate and insecurity, causing individuals to compare themselves to seemingly perfect influencers and feel pressure to look good online. Embracing self-love is a continuous process.

      Social media has both demystified and pressurized beauty, leading individuals like Ray to struggle with self-love and self-hate. Ray's experience, as shared in her podcast and tweets, reveals the anxiety and insecurity that comes with comparing oneself to the seemingly perfect influencers on social media. Despite her belief in enhancing inherent beauty through makeup, Ray has experienced negative self-image and even stopped eating before filming videos due to her appearance concerns. The constant pressure to look good online and the comparison to others can lead to a vicious cycle of insecurity and vanity. Michelle Phan, an early influencer, also experienced this and took a break from social media due to her own insecurities and the strain of maintaining a perfect online image. Brands like Ray's are attempting to address this issue by incorporating vulnerability and self-love messages into their marketing, such as Rae and Item's compact with the "I love you, say it back" message. Ultimately, it's essential to recognize that we all have unique bodies and appearances, and embracing self-love is a continuous process.

    • Beauty industry's portrayal of perfection and pressure to conformThe beauty industry's messaging can create a dialectic of confidence building and destroying, with social media amplifying these pressures. Celebrities like Ray use their platforms to promote self-acceptance and mental health awareness, but it's important to remain critical of industry intentions and potential impact on self-perception.

      The beauty industry's portrayal of perfection and the resulting pressure on individuals to conform can contribute to feelings of insecurity and mental health issues. Celebrities, including Ray, have used their platforms to address these issues and promote self-acceptance and mental health awareness. However, the industry's messaging can also create a dialectic of confidence building and destroying, with social media playing a significant role in amplifying these pressures. Ray's innovation lies in her openness about her own struggles with beauty culture and the industry's standards, inviting fans to join her on this journey. While progress has been made in addressing mental health issues in beauty messaging, it's important to remain critical of the industry's ultimate intentions and the potential impact on consumers' self-perception.

    • The Influence of Social Media and Beauty Influencers on Self-PerceptionSocial media and beauty influencers can create a cycle of dependency and self-criticism, leading to a never-ending quest for perfection. True self-worth comes from within, focus on inner beauty, and be mindful of the content we consume.

      Social media and the influence of beauty influencers can create a vicious cycle of dependency and self-criticism. The more fans rely on these influencers' products to improve their appearance, the more they feel they need those products to feel good about themselves. This can lead to a never-ending quest for perfection, with individuals constantly comparing themselves to others in the mirror. It's important to remember that true self-worth comes from within and not from external sources. We should strive to focus on our inner beauty and not get lost in the comparison game. Additionally, it's essential to be mindful of the influence that social media and beauty influencers have on our self-perception and make sure we are consuming content that promotes positive body image and self-love.

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