153

Alex Biale is an elite boulderer based in CO. We talked about his family legacy of bootlegging wine in Napa Valley, how he got into climbing, his legendary training with Jon Glassberg, pushing himself to the breaking point to send V14, seriously injuring his knee, working with Ollie Torr to overhaul his style and become stronger than ever, the keys to a balanced and happy life, and much more!

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Show Notes:  

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alex-biale

Nuggets:

0:00:00 – Intro/Ads

0:05:34 – Steak and wine

0:06:16 – Alex’s connection to the Jon Glassberg and Ollie Torr episodes

0:07:37 – Alex’s upbringing in Napa, his family legacy of bootlegging wine, and the origin story of Black Chicken

0:12:21 – Working in the vineyard as a kid, and growing up surrounded by family

0:15:36 – Alex’s dad, and doing family backpacking trips to Tahoe

0:20:02 – Getting into climbing

0:21:59 – Parallels to the Josh Champion episode, looking up to CA climbers, getting into highballing, and putting V13 and V1 4 on a pedestal

0:31:01 – Training with Jon Glassberg

0:35:11 – Sending Mind to Motion V14, breaking from the training, and feeling lost after achieving his goal

0:39:59 – Climbing classic V8s in Leavenworth, rediscovering his love for climbing, and adopting a beginners mindset

0:47:58 – History, aesthetics, the amount of climbing in CO, and redefining challenge

0:51:56 – Desiring to become a well-rounded climber

0:58:23 – What gets people stuck, and being honest about what you want from climbing

1:03:20 – Combining strengths and weaknesses

1:09:32 – The perfect storm of training with Jon

1:13:20 – Playing the long game, and drawing inspiration from Martin Keller

1:17:33 – Why you shouldn’t train like a pro climber (unless you’re a pro climber)

1:22:50 – The advice Alex got from Will Anglin, and climbing with rules

1:34:42 – Why Alex hired Ollie Torr to coach him

1:45:43 – What’s different about training with Ollie on a principle level

1:52:24 – Injurying his knee, and transforming his climbing style

2:00:26 – The keys to staying consistent with climbing and training, and the value of a spray wall

2:16:12 – The keys to staying on top of things at work, and Alex’s business ventures

2:23:47 – Carrying a load, hitting rock bottom, and adding value

2:31:26 – The keys to maintaining a healthy relationship

2:37:59 – Wrap up, and very kind words from Alex about the podcast

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Ollie Torr returns to answer questions from Patrons! If you enjoyed my first episode with Ollie, don’t miss this Follow-Up. We discussed critical force and how to measure and improve it, tips for training endurance at home, training for overhangs with limited resources, the power of expectations, balancing multiple sports, BMI and performance, identifying weaknesses, and much more!

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*The full version is 2:49:54.

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Ollie’s Original Episode:

EP 153: Ollie Torr

En este episodio me acompaña Laia, alumna de “Eres un imán para el dinero” y “Manifiéstalo”. Laia nos cuenta su historia con la espiritualidad y con la astrología cabalística y cómo manifestó más de lo que buscaba y consiguió llenarse de abundancia en todos los sentidos. Ella manifestó una de las cosas más grandes y que más deseaba: quedarse embarazada.

Esto son algunos de los puntos clave de los que hablamos: 

• La importancia de aceptar, esperar el momento y disfrutar cuando se da un salto cuántico. Al contrario de agobiarse porque la Manifestación llegue.
• Aprender a gestionar el dinero cuando llega la Manifestación. 
• La lucha que tenemos que ejercer entre la confianza y el miedo. Es igual de virtual centrarnos en qué va a suceder que en qué no va a suceder.
• Intentar buscar las interpretaciones que nos ayuden a actuar y confiar porque para pensar en negativo siempre estamos a tiempo.

Estos y muchos mensajes más nos regala Laia. 
Dale al play, Manifestadora, y disfruta de su experiencia y de su super energía. 

Ollie Torr is an ex-gymnast, high-end rock climber, and co-founder of Lattice Training. We went deep in this conversation and covered Ollie’s top exercises for different types of climbers, how to climb more like Aidan Roberts, how to find your own superpowers and become a specialist, the secret to finger strength, balancing strength and fitness, overtraining vs. under recovering, taking action is six-week blocks, and much more!

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We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

• Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu

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Show Notes:  

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/ollie-torr

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:06:00) – Update on my bicep tendon injury and recovery

(00:09:55) – Ollie’s work with the GB Judo team on grip strength and injury recovery

(00:14:25) – Ollie’s thoughts on the final stage of recovering from an injury

(00:20:33) – My introduction to Lattice in 2016, and Ollie’s funny story about his first interview on Training Beta

(00:23:00) – Perfectionism, paralysis by analysis, and action breeds motivation and progression

(00:26:06) – “What got me here won’t get me there.”

(00:28:35) – Plans for a round two! Stay tuned for a listener Q&A!

(00:32:00) – Assessments, and gathering information from new clients

(00:39:54) – The key metrics that Lattice assesses with new clients

(00:46:10) – Flexibility testing for climbers

(00:49:59) – Trying to figure out what works for yourself and your body as an athlete, and Ollie’s process of examining movement, joint, and action

(00:56:25) – Coaching Aidan Roberts, Aidan’s approach to training for Isles of Wonder Sit (V16/8C+ FA), and the value of combining strength movements with replica training

(01:00:29) – Vacuum climbing, how to climb more like Aidan Roberts, and training with Toby Roberts

(01:13:24) – Specializing vs. working on weaknesses and rounding out your style, and finding your superpower

(01:21:00) – Limbic friction

(01:22:13) – What Ollie learned from Tom Randall, and training to “pass the exam”

(01:30:20) – Exercises for people who struggle with narrow climbing

(01:39:31) – Key exercises for all climbers

(01:43:43) – Dorsi flexion (ankle) test you can do at home

(01:45:03) – Do tight ankles help with climbing on small foot holds?

(01:51:59) – One exercise that Ollie wants every climber to do

(01:54:43) – Exercises for office workers to do throughout the day

(01:56:54) – “Safety comes through strength”, and the value of blood flow and daily movement

(02:02:17) – Having agency in your recovery

(02:03:51) – Let kicks, staple exercises that climbers should do regularly, and playing around with your body

(02:07:05) – Setting the bar super low

(02:08:23) – Staying on the bus

(02:11:39) – Ollie’s gymnastics background, training his fingers after college, and climbing his first V10, V11, and V12 in a two-month period

(02:20:10) – Testing his fingers in Tom’s cellar

(02:21:41) – Switching training with Tom Randall, how he improved his fitness and efficiency to climb 5.14b (8c), and climbing his first V13 by combining fitness and strength

(02:28:22) – The secret to finger strength is….

(02:31:45) – Helping Tom get stronger, and why Tom was able to apply the strength quickly to his rock climbing

(02:35:16) – Why Ollie doesn’t think low volume all year round is a good strategy, and thoughts on prepping for a sport climbing trip as a boulderer

(02:40:58) – Writing yourself a letter

(02:43:12) – My (Steven’s) story of getting injured right after the best week of climbing of my life

(02:45:00) – 3 key lessons from Ollie

(02:51:49) – How to back off after a peak performance

(02:56:47) – “The main reason most of us can’t train like professional athletes is because of our headspace and not because of physical limitations.”

(03:01:45) – Two reminders that Ollie took away from a period of burnout, and overtraining vs. under-recovering

(03:09:41) – “Progression isn’t always the answer.”

(03:16:36) – Taking the pressure off, and Ollie’s story about his first 5.14b (8c)

(03:25:01) – My 2021 summer season in RMNP

(03:28:18) – Removing the friction in your life around climbing

(03:31:53) – Take action on something

(03:34:48) – Thankful for the Lattice Team

(03:36:42) – Wrap up

This week on the show Maine, Emil, and Zak talk about Gordon Ryan Vs Matheus Diniz on WNO, we recap SUG 18, and Preview IBJJF 2020 Pans.

In the news talk about potential matchups with Gordon.

We jump into the recap of Whos Number One.  We break down the entire match between Gordon Ryan and Matheus Diniz that saw the -99 kg and absolute ADCC champion take on the -88 ADCC champ. We talk about how Gordon was able to maintain and get to mount then finish the match with a heel hook.  We talk about Gabi Garcia vs Elizabeth Clay, and how per pressure was able to stave off the leg lock game of Clay.

We discuss Craig Jones vs Roberto Jimenez that saw great entries from Craig and a dominate finish in under 3 minutes.We discuss Dante Leon vs Kody Steel and how dynamic both are, as well as more reasons that we love Dante’s style. 

We look at Nicky Ryan’s 23 second heel hook win over stand out wrestlers. 

In our recap of Submission Underground (SUG) 18 we look at the champ vs champ match of Mason Fowler Vs Vinny Magalhaes.  We talk about the format and what we would like to see from SUG in the future.

We talk about William Tackett vs Gabriel Checco and how tackett was able to get it done twice in a weekend.  We talk Keith Krikorian vs Rafael Domingos via no arm triangle.  Plus the rest of the card. 

For our preview of IBJJF 2020 Pans we take a look at all the registrations for the Black Belt divisions for the men’s and woman’s adult brackets.  The team make their shot in the dark picks for who they think will take each division. 

In the outro we discuss the plans for the weekend 

Recorded 10-5-2020

This week on the show Maine and Emil recap Polaris Squads, Third Coast Grappling Kumite 7, Fight to Win 153, and Sapateiro Invitational Keith Krikorian Vs Emil Fischer.  Also this week we preview Who’s Number One (WNO) Gordon Ryan vs Matheus Diniz, and Submission Underground (SUG) 18 Vinny Magalhães Vs Mason Fowler.

In the news section of the show we talk about AJP Grand Slam Miami that took place this weekend.

In the recap section we kick it off with Polaris Squads that saw two teams from the UK and Ireland take on Europe in the exciting Polaris squads team battle format.  We saw some great action and recap all of the 16 matches in the squads event including the submission from Tom Halpin, and the superfight that saw Ffion Davies continue her domination streak on the Polaris stage.

In the recap of 3CG Kumite 7 the final $10,000 Kumite we recap the woman’s bracket that saw a calf sliver choke combo from Luiza Montiero, as well as a great toe hold to kneebar transition.  We also saw Ana Carolina Vieira win her first match via tech fall, and take the entire event and 10K in her finals match against Montierio. We briefly recap Vinícius “Trator” Ferreira Gazola vs Gustavo Batista and the superfight between Lucas “Hulk” Barbosa vs Guilherme Augusto.

In the recap of F2W 153 we talk about the main event Samuel Nagai defeating Gianni Grippo and the meta of fight to win with the 50/50 ankle lock.  We talk about the fining sequence of Junny Ocasio vs Marcelo Cohen that saw Junny’s first defense of his 135 pound belt via Heelhook and earned him Submission of the Night Honors, we also talk about Talita Alencar vs Heather Raftery, and the other matches on the card.  

In our recap of the Sapateiro Invitational Keith Krikorian Vs Emil Fischer we discuss how this champ vs champ match played out and how Keith was able to get the finish done in overtime. 

In the preview section of the show we kick it off with WNO Gordon Ryan vs Matheus Diniz that will be a 30 minute sub only match we talk about the styles and why we think the format favors Ryan. We discus Craig Jones vs Roberto Jimenez and how this match will come down to if Craig can get a leg or if Roberto can use his closed guard game to get the back.  In Gabi Garcia vs Elisabeth Clay we discuss the leglock vs top control and pressure dynamic of this matchup. In Kody Steele vs Dante Leon we talk about the wrestling and credentials of both grapplers leading into this match. Paulo Miyao vs Geo Martinez we discuss Geo’s absence from competition as of late since ADCC 2019. In Nicky Ryan vs Tony Ramos we discuss the wrestling vs BJJ dynamic and how we think Nicky will take this one.  In William Tackett vs Jason Rau we discuss the leg lock battle that is sure to play out. 

In the preview of SUG 18 Vinny Magalhães Vs Mason Fowler we discuss the main event and if the cage will play a factor, and how the overtime could come into play. As well as the rest of the exciting matches on the card. 

In the outro Maine talks about getting another deer while hunting, and how the whole team should play Among Us. 

Recorded 9-28-2020

This week on the show Maine and Emil recap Fight to Win 152, We preview Polaris Squads, Third Coast Grappling Kumite 7 The Women, F2W 153, and Sapatero Krikorian Vs Fischer.  

In the news section of the show we talk about how ADCC US trials have been postponed and how this is due to via and travel issues.  We talk about the Asian ADCC Trials being postponed as well, and the possibility of ADCC 2021 being postponed.  

We also discuss Sin City Submission event, Mackenzie Dern armbar on this weekends UFC Card, and Raquel Canuto’s Invicta fight this weekend.  

In the recap section of the show we talk about Fight to Win 152 headlined by Edwin Najmi vs Michael Liera Jr via for the Welterweight Gi title, we break down Leira jr guard passing sequences, and the 50-50 dueling belly down ankle lock attempts that closed don the match.  

We recap the masters Welterweight  bout between Rafael Formiga Barbosa and Alex 

That featured some big slams, and great passing work and guard opening work from Formiga 

In our recap of Gabriel Almeida vs Romulo Barral we look at the great top work from Almeida, including a great transition to mount and and great positional work that won him the match. We also discuss Johnatha Alves vs Johnny Tama, and talked about troubling and annoying grips.

In the preview section we explain the rules for Polaris squads with team Uk and Ireland Vs Team Europe.  This event features a quintet style team battle format with a few twists that we are very excited for.  We discuss some possible outcomes from the event including a superfight with Ffion Davies.

We preview Keith Krikorian Vs Emil Fischer on Sapateiro, the 155 champ vs the 205 champ.  

We preview Third Coast Grappling Kumite 7 featuring Nathalie Ribeiro, Nathiely de Jesus, Luiza Monteiro , Andressa Cintra , Jena Bishop , Ana Carolina Vieira for the womans $10,000 Kumite we also talk about Gustavo Batista vs Vinicius "Trator" Ferreira, and Guilherme Augusto vs Lucas "Hulk" Barbosa.

In our preview of F2W 153 we talk about Gianni Grippo vs Samuel Nagai, and Chelsea Lyons vs Nikki Sullivan.

In the outro section of the show Maine talks about getting a deer this hunting season, and training in his basement.  

Recorded 9-21-2020