Explore " fulltime" with insightful episodes like "A Palette of Possibilities - Chronicles of a new full-time artist by Bernadette Ballantyne – Coromind Issue 9, 2023", "EP 183: Jenn DeBellis — Chasing Dream Boulders, Turning Small Wins Into Big Wins, and Sustaining a Full-Time Job on the Road", "Tennis, Gardening, Jesus, Golf", "Emma Evangeline Gustafson (NZ Artist/Illustrator) - ALTBAYS Show #181" and "Healing In a Spooky World" from podcasts like ""Coromind", "The Nugget Climbing Podcast", "Holy Spirit Soapbox", "ALTBAYS" and "Excuse Our Highness Podcast"" and more!
Mid-September marks one year since resigning from my teaching position and becoming a full-time artist! After graduating with my Fine Art degree in 2005, being a full-time artist is something that I have always strived for … who knew it would take me 18 years to figure out how to make it work?! So, I’m here. My ‘day job’ is ARTIST…
Jenn DeBellis is an elite-level boulderer and software engineer. We sat down in Rocklands and talked about her biggest lessons from childhood gymnastics and collegiate athletics, trying V13s in Magic Wood and Rocklands, getting comfortable with failure, learning to embrace her style, her elaborate warmup routine, how she plans her 6-week training cycles, her role with KAYA, tips for sustaining a full-time job on the road, and much more!
Check out The Nugget on YouTube:
youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbing
The Nugget is brought to you by BetterHelp!
Use this link for 10% off your first month!
Check out PhysiVantage!
physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)
Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!
Check out Chalk Cartel!
Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!
Check out Rumpl!
Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!
Check out Wonderful Pistachios!
WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Support on Patreon:
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jenn-debellis
Nuggets:
0:04:57 – Bugs and SAT words
0:06:39 – Jenn’s gymnastics background, and pole vaulting in college
0:11:12 – Paying attention to the best qualities in our friends
0:13:15 – Tough coaches, and learning to be tough on herself
0:15:00 – Being comfortable with failure, and Jenn’s Olympic aspirations in gymnastics
0:19:26 – Setting the scene
0:20:09 – Getting inspired by Ray of Light V13, and Jenn’s initial goals for her trip to Rocklands
0:22:24 – The breakdown of Ray of Light, and the standards in Rocklands
0:24:10 – V10 and 8A, and the decision to try really hard and inspiring things
0:26:30 – The 8a leaderboard, and shift her philosophy to chase dream boulders
0:30:50 – My new shoe mod for Black Shadow
0:34:08 – Getting excited about “sending” crux moves, and turning small wins into big wins
0:35:59 – Trying beyond limit boulders, and making tradeoffs
0:40:21 – Jenn and I compare our experiences with Black Shadow and Ray of Light, and share takeaways
0:48:00 – The climbers we’ve learned from, and the truth about people who climb hard
0:51:04 – Owning your style, not falling into the pitfall of trying to copy your peers, and trying Full Throttle V13 in Hueco
0:57:23 – How living on the road has changed my perception of climbing, and different ways you can express difficulty in climbing
0:59:06 – Working on her strengths and supplementing her weaknesses
1:01:20 – Thinking about her training in checkboxes
1:03:14 – Not knowing where home is, and having many homes on the road
1:08:28 – Jenn’s lifestyle, leaving her PhD program to live in a van
1:15:05 – How Jenn balances indoor training and outdoor performance
1:17:49 – How she plans her training cycles, and using autoregulation to ramp up after a trip
1:21:29 – “Injury is the enemy.”
1:22:12 – How Jenn balances her climbing life with a full-time remote job
1:23:46 – Life is 30% less efficient on the road
1:25:49 – Tips for finding cheap rent in cities
1:26:54 – The dirtbag mindset, how to make working on the road sustainable
1:31:13 – How Jenn structures a 6-week training block, and the key ingredients in her training
1:33:07 – Weight lifting, and cutting out accessory exercises
1:35:07 – Board climbing, and how to train for something like Full Throttle
1:36:46 – Jenn’s long-ass climbing warmup
1:40:21 – The different stages of Jenn’s warmup
1:41:28 – Keeping training and outdoor trips separate
1:43:45 – Improving year on year
1:44:54 – Upcoming trips and goals, and training 4x4s on her home wall
1:47:53 – KAYA, Jenn’s role on the engineering team, and her passion for her work
1:54:44 – Favorite rock type, and thinking better on granite
1:57:08 – Ultimate dream climbs, and meaningful first female ascents
1:59:34 – Joe’s Valley doughnuts
2:01:11 – Kodiak Cakes
2:02:06 – Go-to climbing shoes
2:02:17 – Jenn’s connection to Joe’s Valley, and how she became a software engineer
2:05:02 – Desert Island DVDs
2:06:31 – Hype music
2:08:27 – Best decision she’s ever made, and how long she sees herself living this lifestyle
2:11:42 – Thoughts about having a family and drawing inspiration from strong moms
2:12:42 – What Jenn wishes people spent less time thinking about
2:14:25 – Building out her van
2:17:36 – Toying with the idea of bringing back blogs
2:19:45 – Wrapping up in the dark
What do these 4 things have in common? Join host Dan as the Holy Spirit gives us the answer.
Verses mentioned in this episode:
-Mark 7:6
-Isaiah 29:13
-Matthew 16:24-27
Questions:
1) Who is Jesus to you?
2) What are some ways you might have treated Jesus or the Body of Christ as a hobby?
3) How can you surrender to God today?
Music Credit: Alex Grohl - "Indie Folk (King Around Here)" downloaded from http://www.pixabay.com
Photo Credit: images from http://www.canva.com/
Video Conversion: https://www.onlineconverter.com/audio-to-video
For more information and to check out our other episodes, visit us at holyspiritsoapbox.com.
Social Links:
Instagram | Facebook | TikTok | YouTube
What are the benefits and downsides of working for yourself? Emma is a full-time artist and illustrator who creates incredible nature-based scenes. In 2020, she illustrated The Story of Swoop, which hit #1 on the NZ Children's Bestseller list. Emma just finished a solo exhibition in the Coromandel and was recently featured on the cover of the Coromind magazine. She comes to the Altbays Show to discuss the challenges of being a full-time artist, mental health and much more! We are pleased to have the fashion designer Beth Claire as a co-host!
Show 181 – Emma Evangeline Gustafson (NZ Artist/Illustrator)
Welcome to the Altbays Show (Feat. Beth Claire and Leo Magri)
Emma Evangeline Gustafson, is a full-time artist and illustrator based in Whitianga. She primarily paints nature-based scenes and local landscapes. She loves exploring the Coromandel peninsula and painting special spots she finds off the beaten track. Through her painting, she gets to showcase the magic of the Coromandel – the pristine beaches, bush, birdlife, creeks, crystals and stunning rock formations. She loves the challenge of trying to do these landscapes justice. She sometimes likes to add metaphysical/surreal elements to her paintings too, because she thinks it's important to remember that everything in our world is so much more connected than we realise.
Emma studied graphic design, and is a completely self-taught painter who have always gravitated towards art-making because it runs through her whānau.
In 2020, she started delving more into illustration. The first big illustration job she was fortunate to work on was The Story of Swoop, which managed to hit #1 on the NZ Children's bestseller list. Since then, she has worked on a couple of other stories for NZ-based authors, but she intends to illustrate her own stories so she ca have greater creative freedom.
Emma really believes that creative expression is medicine.
ALTBAYS Show invites awesome people to have an honest, laid-back conversation. Our platform focuses on bringing communities together to grow and thrive.
Here are the links to the articles we referenced on this week's episode:
Football player sparking up after TD: Fan Controlled Football QB Jason Stewart Throws TD And Sparks A Joint (brobible.com)
Rules to Fan Controlled Football:10 Fan Controlled Football Rules to Know for the 2022 Season – LX
Serial Killer connection: Astrology Has a Creepy-Accurate Explanation for Serial Killers (cosmopolitan.com)
Remember to follow the pod on IG @excuseourhighnesspod
De hele maatschappij is erop ingericht dat vrouwen parttime werken. Het gevolg is dat bijna de helft van alle Nederlandse vrouwen niet genoeg verdient om voor zichzelf te kunnen zorgen. Dat moet veranderen, vinden Marieke ’t Hart en Sabine Leenhouts van VROUW. De podcast Zo Doet Zij Dat staat deze week in het teken van feminisme. Volgens schrijver en columniste Marianne Zwagerman zijn vrouwen verplicht om hun bijdrage te leveren aan Nederland, zeker na een dure opleiding. En in de rubriek Zo Doet Hij Dat bespreekt programmamaker Tim Hofman de grootste misvatting over feministen.
See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.
Wie een kind heeft, ontkomt niet aan de moedermaffia. De afkeurende blikken, het eeuwige commentaar en natuurlijk het ongevraagde advies. Alles onder het mom van ‘het beste voor je kind’. Waarom ligt het moederschap zo onder een vergrootglas? Dat bespreken Marieke ’t Hart en Sabine Leenhouts van VROUW in een nieuwe aflevering van de podcast Zo Doet Zij Dat. Ze spreken met zangeres Tabitha, die ook steun krijgt van de moedermaffia, en onderzoeken met de hulp van Henk Hanssen -expert op het gebied van vaderschap- of ze zelf onbewust ook lid zijn van de club.
See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.
Vaste contracten en werken tot je 60ste is vooral iets van de oudere generatie. Millennials hoppen van contract naar contract en ruilen zekerheid in voor inspirerende werkplekken. Werk is iets geworden wat vooral leuk moet zijn. Hoe komt dit en wat zijn de gevolgen hiervan? Dat bespreekt presentator Jeroen Holtrop met Marlou Visser, Lindsey Groot en Koen Nederhof.
See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.
De vierdaagse werkweek wint na succesvolle onderzoeken wereldwijd aan terrein. Voor werknemers een uitkomst, voor werkgevers een enorme puzzel. Hoe interessant is een werkweek van vier dagen voor deeltijdkampioen Nederland? Hoe kun je als (kleine) ondernemer mee in de hype? Wat betekent de kortere werkweek voor de verdeling tussen mannen en vrouwen op de arbeidsmarkt, en welke adders zitten er onder het gras? Te gast is DFT-verslaggever Joost Spijker.
See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.
Today is a great time to bump up your ComicLab membership to the $10 tier! Starting in June, $10 Patreon backers will get exclusive access to livestream recording sessions — and an archive of previous livestreams! This week, exactly one week after Brad lectures on the dangers of getting distracted, one of his TikTok videos goes viral — and he spends the next two weeks... getting very, very distracted,
Questions asked and topics covered...
You get great rewards when you join the ComicLab Community on Patreon
Brad Guigar is the creator of Evil Inc and the editor of Webcomics.com Dave Kellett is the creator of Sheldon and Drive.
Listen to ComicLab on...
ComicLab is hosted on Simplecast, helping podcasters since 2013. with industry-leading publishing, distribution, and sharing tools.
You get great rewards when you join the ComicLab Community on Patreon
Brad Guigar is the creator of Evil Inc and the author of The Webcomics Handbook. Dave Kellett is the creator of Sheldon and Drive.
The platform gig economy has brought several changes in the way work is performed and organised. Some kinds of work challenge the very underpinnings of labor and industrial laws - such as the need for a place of work and the space for collective bargaining. Tech mediated platform gig work while offering flexibility to those who seek it and low entry barriers, may also in its own way be expanding the margins of society leaving those who are doing such work with little recourse in the law or little opportunity to negotiate futures. In this context, Alok and Sarayu discuss futures of workers and discuss the ways in which politics and law needs to be imagined.
See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.
Attention all creators: if you're wondering how to take the next steps in making your passion/creative outlet/hobby a full time business, this is the episode for you. Nathan Brown is an incredible artist that took all of his knowledge from previous career experiences and implemented these lessons into his full time business as a public artist. Nathan is commissioned and travels all over the world to share his mind opening murals and unique designs.
To learn more about Nathan Brown, check out: www.19ss.net
Life is busy. How do you find time to work on the creative stuff? Alrik and Timothy talk about finding a balance between work, friends, life, and creative projects.
Stay up to date
For any inquiries, please email us at hello@podcastworld.io