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    Explore " redlight" with insightful episodes like "#56: MAXIMIZE — Dealing with Constraints, Falling in Love, 2016 Moonboarding, Tim’s Big Move, Goals and How to Actually Train for Them, Bucket List Climbs, and Fitzgerald Reflections", "#55: David Fitzgerald — Technique and Strength on Small Holds, Getting Granular, The Tahoe Scene, Training Minutiae, and Editing “A Little Life”", "#54: World Cup '23 [Spoilers!] — Why This Season Was So Good, New Amazing Talent, Bouldering Results, Venue Vibes, and Why it’s like F1", "#53: Jon Cardwell — 5.15 Sport Climbing, Busting Plateaus and Structured Training, Dirtbagging in Europe, Advice for Young Pro’s, Anaerobic vs. Aerobic, and The Best Climbing Areas in the World" and "#52: No Coach? No Problem — How to Self Analyze, Learn How to Answer the Question “Why?”, Using Video for Success, What your Friends Know (or DON’T)" from podcasts like ""The Testpiece Podcast", "The Testpiece Podcast", "The Testpiece Podcast", "The Testpiece Podcast" and "The Testpiece Podcast"" and more!

    Episodes (31)

    #56: MAXIMIZE — Dealing with Constraints, Falling in Love, 2016 Moonboarding, Tim’s Big Move, Goals and How to Actually Train for Them, Bucket List Climbs, and Fitzgerald Reflections

    #56: MAXIMIZE — Dealing with Constraints, Falling in Love, 2016 Moonboarding, Tim’s Big Move, Goals and How to Actually Train for Them, Bucket List Climbs, and Fitzgerald Reflections

    Tim and Josh are extra psyched on climbing right now. They share what’s been going on in their training and the goals they’ve set for themselves. They also share some highlights and lessons learned from the David Fitzgerald interview last week.

    The topic of the day is about how to maximize your training while dealing with the reality of what facilities you have available. How do you train for a 60m tufa route on a moonboard? Tim and Josh don’t quite agree… but their approaches both have merit and will help you get to where you want to go.

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    #55: David Fitzgerald — Technique and Strength on Small Holds, Getting Granular, The Tahoe Scene, Training Minutiae, and Editing “A Little Life”

    #55: David Fitzgerald — Technique and Strength on Small Holds, Getting Granular, The Tahoe Scene, Training Minutiae, and Editing “A Little Life”

    David Fitzgerald is “one of the most underrated climbers out there” per Jimmy Webb. If that doesn’t make you hit play immediately, keep reading because there’s more…

    On top of being a v15 climber (v16 soon!) with insane finger strength, he is also an extremely talented editor/videographer. You probably have seen his newest film with Keenan Takahashi, “A Little Life”, and if you haven’t yet… Why not?!

    In this podcast, David breaks down his training techniques, how his fingers got to be so strong, tips on how you can do the same, as well as a peek behind the scenes on what it looks like to be part of the Mellow crew where he is developing new areas and hard boulders in Tahoe, Yosemite, and more. 

    He also shares the process of editing “A Little Life” and what it was like working with the top talent in our industry to bring about one of the best films of the year. 

    Don’t miss this one!!

    Find David on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dv_fitzgerald/

    Join Tim and Josh on July 19th @ 7pm PST for a Live Classroom / AMA! Available to Patreon supporters (LFG!). Sign up here: https://www.patreon.com/TESTPIECE

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    Support us on Patreon: HERE

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    #54: World Cup '23 [Spoilers!] — Why This Season Was So Good, New Amazing Talent, Bouldering Results, Venue Vibes, and Why it’s like F1

    #54: World Cup '23 [Spoilers!] — Why This Season Was So Good, New Amazing Talent, Bouldering Results, Venue Vibes, and Why it’s like F1

    The ’23 Boulder WC season is over and it was a banger! Even if comps aren’t your thing we all have a ton to learn from watching the best of the best battle it out. This season had some of the most impressive breakout talent — hear Tim and Josh talk about the 16 year old phenom, Sorato Anraku.

    And per usual, the pod starts with a review of the most recent guest — Jon Cardwell. There was a lot packed into that episode so Tim and Josh made sure to pull out some of the highlights and share their takes.

    Support the show


    Support us on Patreon: HERE

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    #53: Jon Cardwell — 5.15 Sport Climbing, Busting Plateaus and Structured Training, Dirtbagging in Europe, Advice for Young Pro’s, Anaerobic vs. Aerobic, and The Best Climbing Areas in the World

    #53: Jon Cardwell — 5.15 Sport Climbing, Busting Plateaus and Structured Training, Dirtbagging in Europe, Advice for Young Pro’s, Anaerobic vs. Aerobic, and The Best Climbing Areas in the World

    Jon Cardwell is one of the top sport climbers in the world with multiple 5.15’s sends under his belt. Oh ya, and the 3rd ascent of a legendary V15 you might have heard of, “The Game”. 

    And during this podcast you’ll see why. Jon is introspective, open minded, and relentlessly puts in the work. Join us while he shares how he has figured out how to send hard, and what he has learned from the all star crew he has spent the last 15+ years traveling and climbing with.

    You also don’t want to miss his wild stories of dirtbagging around Europe and all of the amazing places he’s visited. Saying Jon is well traveled is an understatement. 

    Support the show


    Support us on Patreon: HERE

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    #52: No Coach? No Problem — How to Self Analyze, Learn How to Answer the Question “Why?”, Using Video for Success, What your Friends Know (or DON’T)

    #52: No Coach? No Problem — How to Self Analyze, Learn How to Answer the Question “Why?”, Using Video for Success, What your Friends Know (or DON’T)

    Most of the time we don’t have a coach sitting behind us giving feedback. So what do you when you are by yourself and stuck? How do you do learn to coach yourself when no one is around?

    Tim and Josh share how to use video, questions, and friends, to answer the questions “Why?” [did I fall]. Tim shows how this is one of the most important skills to develop in order to get better, forever.

    They use real examples of routes and boulders they struggled on to show how they were able to progress without the help of a coach. By being their own coach!

    ANNOUCMENT:
     
    We started a Patreon! Support us HERE and unlock cool new ways to get more of what you love about The Testpiece Podcast. Your support means we can devote more time to helping us all learn how to go from Good to Great.

    Definitely join the "LFG!" tier because then you get to hang out with Tim and Josh on their monthly live "Ask-Me-Anything" Zoom calls. This will be like a live podcast where they choose a topic and go deep, but the big difference is YOU will be there to interrupt and ask questions about your unique situation or anything else you've been wanting to get their take on. These recordings will never be public and will only be available to Patrons.

    The first AMA will be on July 19th @ 7pm PST. Sign up on Patreon HERE. See you there!


    Support the show


    Support us on Patreon: HERE

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    #51: Jamie Emerson — The ‘Sheriff’, Defining Boulders, What Elite Climbers have in Common, Subjectivity in Grading, Technique vs Smoothness, Sending After 100 Days, Training your Creativity, and Developing What’s Next

    #51: Jamie Emerson — The ‘Sheriff’, Defining Boulders, What Elite Climbers have in Common, Subjectivity in Grading, Technique vs Smoothness, Sending After 100 Days, Training your Creativity, and Developing What’s Next

    You care about climbing. I care about climbing. And so does Jamie Emerson. Because Jamie cares so much he is willing to dive into the minutiae to help us define our sport. The How and the Why behind how Jamie does this is fascinating and will hit home to all of us who love climbing so much.

    Jimmy Webb jokingly called him the “Sheriff” and somehow that nickname stuck. But that one word title doesn’t even begin to scratch the surface of Jamie’s mark on the climbing world. Over the years Jamie has done it all — climbed extremely hard boulders, developed new areas, route set at an international level, and spent time with the best climbers in the world.

    These experiences mean Jamie has a lot to share. Don’t miss this one.

    You can find Jamie's guidebooks linked below:

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    #50: The Best Climbing Gym in the World? — Japanese Setting, ‘Black’ Tape, B-Pump, and Reflections on the ‘Villain’

    #50: The Best Climbing Gym in the World? — Japanese Setting, ‘Black’ Tape, B-Pump, and Reflections on the ‘Villain’

     Is B-Pumo Ogikubo the best climbing gym is the world? 

     Japan has created some of the strongest climbers in the world, especially in the competition scene, and Tim wanted to know how they did it. 

    So Tim made the pilgrimage to Japan to see what all the chatter was about. He goes into the setting, the holds, the style, and the yakitori.

    PS -- Here's the tripod Tim mentions in his Pro-Tip: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09WHLXN6N?ref_=cm_sw_r_apin_dp_N00JV2ETQ1EQWCQ68T1R

    Support the show


    Support us on Patreon: HERE

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    #49: Tristan Chen — Being the ‘Villain’, Grades in Climbing, Climbing 5.15 in Rumney, Surviving Cancer, What Pro’s are ACTUALLY Like (Over/Underrated), and ‘Hot Takes’ Galore

    #49: Tristan Chen — Being the ‘Villain’, Grades in Climbing, Climbing 5.15 in Rumney, Surviving Cancer, What Pro’s are ACTUALLY Like (Over/Underrated), and ‘Hot Takes’ Galore

    You know him, you hate him, Tristan Chen — the ‘Villain’ of climbing!

    We’re half-joking, Tristan is only the ‘Villain’ because it makes the climbing world more fun and he has opinions that he’s not afraid to share. And make no mistake, these opinions are not just to cause problems — they are well thought through and interesting. The truth is, most high level climbers are already having these conversations about grades and abilities behind closed doors, but Tristan is willing to shine light on what’s being said behind the scenes and give his take. His ‘hot takes’! And he has a lot of them...

    So tune in and listen to someone who is finally saying what we were all already thinking.


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    #48: Do or DIE — How to Perform Under Pressure in Competitions, Run-Outs, Highballs, Flashing, or ANYTIME the Stakes are High

    #48: Do or DIE — How to Perform Under Pressure in Competitions, Run-Outs, Highballs, Flashing, or ANYTIME the Stakes are High

    Sometimes climbing can be intense. Maybe it’s in competition, maybe it’s being way off the deck and in serious danger, or maybe you just know it’s the last try you have because of skin, conditions, or the end of a trip coming.

    Tim and Josh share how to handle these situations, and even better, how to prepare yourself for these moments through training. Don’t just hope that you will rise to the moment, use their practical tips and tricks to make sure that you are ready when these times come.

    Support the show


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    #47: Carlo Traversi — Becoming Great, The Hardest Moves and Grades in the World, How Having Fun Can Beat Training, Mastering Different Disciplines, The Magic of Yosemite, and What Makes Carlo’s Gym ‘The Boulder Field’ Special

    #47: Carlo Traversi — Becoming Great, The Hardest Moves and Grades in the World, How Having Fun Can Beat Training, Mastering Different Disciplines, The Magic of Yosemite, and What Makes Carlo’s Gym ‘The Boulder Field’ Special

    Carlo Traversi (@carlodenali) is a professional climber that has mastered every discipline in climbing. 5.14+ trad, 5.15 sport, V16 boulders, USA Nation Team for over a DECADE! Carlo has done it all. On top of this, he founded one of the top gyms in the nation — The Boulder Field

    Tune in and learn how Carlo achieved all of this and how you can too.

    Don’t miss this one. Tim and Josh think it’s one of the best yet!

    Support the show


    Support us on Patreon: HERE

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    Ep 59: Mella Dee and the joy of presets

    Ep 59: Mella Dee and the joy of presets

    This time, we’re joined by the House, Techno, and Disco producer behind the 2017 Silver-certified hit 'Techno Disco Tool' with 30 million+ Spotify streams. On this episode, we reveal Mella Dee’s surprising muse: dub reggae. Explore how this unexpected influence shapes his gear choices and gives birth to his irresistible, dancefloor-ready anthems. Also, unearth the obscure equipment that powers his sound, discover which producer friend holds the record for speaker blowouts, and learn how he masterfully works with complicated effect units – it’s simpler than you might think.

     

    Season 5 is sponsored by Audient: audient.com

     

    STUFF WE TALK ABOUT (SPOILERS AHEAD!)

    https://letsgopeakdistrict.co.uk/peak-district-towns-and-villages-yorkshire/

    https://www.apc.com/uk/en/product-category/88972-uninterruptible-power-supply-ups/

    https://www.apple.com/uk/mac-studio/

    https://en.antelopeaudio.com/products/galaxy-64-synergy-core/

    https://www.eventideaudio.com/rackmount/h9000/

    https://www.instagram.com/s_p_e_c_i_a_l_r_e_q_u_e_s_t/?hl=en

    https://ra.co/dj/redlight

    https://reverb.com/au/item/31882128-ursa-major-stargate-626-effects-processor

    https://soundgas.com/product/yamaha-e1010-analog-delay-4/

    https://usa.yamaha.com/files/download/other_assets/5/320765/E1010E.pdf

    https://abbeyrecording.com/ssl-4000-mixing-desk

    https://zaehl.com/products/am1-mixing-console

    https://studiocare.com/products/atc-scm300a-sl-pro-three-way-active-monitor-pair

    https://soundgas.com/product/soundgas-type-636-grampian-spring-reverb-2023/

    https://reverb.com/item/7454245-akg-bx20-e

    https://www.sequentix.com/shop/cirklon-hardware-sequencer

    #46 -- F*CK! I'm Injured

    #46 -- F*CK! I'm Injured

    Tim and Josh dig into the topic of injuries. How to avoid them, how to work around them, how to train around them, and the mindset you need to get through them and come back stronger.

    They both have had their fair share and learned a lot from them. They are often make or break moments in your career, so tune in to hear from our mistakes and the our new best practices.

    Pro-Tip: Don’t get injured.

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    #45 -- Jared Roth (pusher)

    #45 -- Jared Roth (pusher)

    Jared Roth joined Tim and Josh for an epic pod!

    There was soooo much ground to cover because Jared has done it all in the climbing world. Be sure not to miss his stories about the early days in Bishop and his FA of the iconic Rastaman Vibration (stand start of Lucid Dreaming).


    But Jared is more than just an OG crusher with some of the best FA’s in America — he also now owns the legendary climbing hold company Pusher. Jared gives us the real behind scenes on making holds, shaping holds, and all the nitty gritty that climbing geeks like us love. Enjoy!

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    #44 -- Your Home

    #44 -- Your Home

    Tim and Josh share their takeaways from the last interview with Connor Herson and an interview Tim did for another podcast. Then they discuss some of the drama around hold choice in the latest World Cup. 

    The pod ends with a listener question that focused on community in climbing. How it comes to be, how to build it, how to join one, and the cool communities that Tim and Josh have been a part of over the years.

    Support the show


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    #43 -- Connor Herson, Non-Traditional

    #43 -- Connor Herson, Non-Traditional

    Tim and Josh joke that Connor's background of traditional climbing actually makes him Non-Traditional. But this gives him a unique POV compared to others and it makes it all the more fun to hear his take on competitions, bouldering, plastic, trad, etc. 

    Don’t miss this pod, and definitely don’t miss Connor’s recent film released by La Sportiva — “Traditional at Heart”.

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    #42 -- Crimp Types and the Why Behind Each One

    #42 -- Crimp Types and the Why Behind Each One

    Tim and Josh actually do love crimps. Or at least they like them…

    In this episode they go into each of the different crimp types (open, half, full) and the pro’s and con’s of each one. Then they talk about how and why to utilize each type depending on the hold and movement required. 

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    #40 -- Putting the Lessons Together, Effort

    #40 -- Putting the Lessons Together, Effort

    Tim and Josh go into the application of Balance and Mechanics: Effort. 

    Tim shows us how Effort is something that is trainable all by itself. 

    Effort is that “jen ne se quois” that MUST be understood and developed in order to become a great climber.

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    #39 -- The 2nd Lesson, Mechanics

    #39 -- The 2nd Lesson, Mechanics

    Tim and Josh go into the next thing Tim addresses with his clients: Climbing Mechanics. 

    They show the process behind how you can deconstruct hard “stopper” moves to make them as easy as possible. This is fundamental for leveling up your climbing. 

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    #38 -- The 1st Lesson, Balance

    #38 -- The 1st Lesson, Balance

    Balance on the wall is one of the first things Tim goes over with all of his coaching clients. In this episode Tim and Josh go over what balance means in climbing, how to find better positions when you feel ‘off balance’, and how to execute the next move once that position is obtained.

    Support the show


    Support us on Patreon: HERE

    Visit our podcast page: HERE

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